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There is no air flowing from the vents in the freezer, but the fan is running. There is slight air coming out of the upper vent in the fresh food compartment but nothing from the lower vent.
History over the passed couple of weeks:
We first noticed the ice cream was soupy. but the fan in the freezer compartment was and is running. Took the back panel off and found the evaporator had a thick layer of ice all over it. Used a hair dryer to melt it. We then replaced the defrost heater assembly using a kit that which included a thermostat. We cleaned the refrigerator inside, out and underneath. Brushed all the dust off the coils. The thing looked brand new. After putting everything back together, we started it up. It all seemed to be running good. Strong air was coming from all the vents in both compartments fresh food and freezer.
After a few days we notice the ice cream was soupy again. Back to the drawing board. We checked the air vents. There is no air flowing from the vents in the freezer. There is slight air coming out of the upper vent in the fresh food compartment, no air from the lower vent. But, the evaporator freezer fan and the condenser fan is running. We then replaced the defrost timer. No change no air flow in the freezer, slight air from the upper vent in the fresh food compartment.
Help I am at a loss. What should I check next? What could be blocking the air flow.
Thanks
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The second time around did you check the evaporator coils again?
It sounds like they frosted over again.
When you replaced the defrost timer did you manually defrost the unit?
If not it will take several defrost cycles to clear them.
I would re-check the evaporator coils.
If iced/frosted over do not defrost them yet.
Turn the defrost timer cam till the compressor and fans shut off.
There is usually a hole in the cover that will let you do this without dismantling anything. Also it only turns in one direction.
Now check if the defrost heaters are on.
Be careful that you do not burn your fingers.
If they are on then unplug the unit and manually defrost the evaporator coils.
When you plug the unit back in it should complete the defrost cycle (about half an hour) and restart the fans and compressor.
If this problem happens again then there is probably a problem with the defrost timer. |
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Yes, when I replaced the defrost timer I again used a hair dryer to melt the ice. At this time there wasn't much ice at all. Most of the ice was at the bottom of the evaporator. I didn't see any ice any where else.
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Ice/frost in only one area (usually where the freon enters the evaporator coils) is a symptom of a sealed system problem.
Is the compressor running all the time except when the unit goes through a defrost cycle?
Perhaps recheck the evaporator coils.
Make sure that the compressor has run for at least half an hour.
If you check the coils during or shortly after a defrost cycle you may end up with the wrong diagnosis.
The coils should have a fairly even coating of frost on them.
The air flow in the unit is into the fresh food compartment through the upper vent and then from the fresh food into the freezer through the lower vent. This then gives you air circulation. Both vent must be claer for proper cooling. |
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Well, it has been 5/6 days the refrigerator is holding the temperature. The fresh food and freezer compartments are at the optimum temp. I can't thank you enough.
Thank you for your help
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Spoke too soon. The temp in both compartments dropped below optimum setting. Ice cream was soup.
I took the panel off in the freezer to find a thick coating of ice on the lower evaporator coils only, no ice on the upper coils. Melted in off with a hair dryer. Plugged the frig back in and turned it on. So far the temps are dropping.
I suspect the same thing is going to happen. How can I figure out if there is a sealed system problem? I hear the frig running, it seems to be all the time. But I think it is the fans i am hearing.
What can I do at this point?
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[COLOR="Blue"]How can I figure out if there is a sealed system problem?[/COLOR]
Your problem seems to be that the unit runs OK until you get heavy frost/ice on the evaporator coils. So I doubt this is a sealed system problem as it would never work properly (get the unit down to set point temperatures).
I would be more suspicious of the defrost heater re: the lower heater is not working properly.
You could try forcing a defrost cycle by turning the timer cam.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without dismantling anything.
Then check if both heaters come on OK.
Be careful that you do not burn your fingers.
Note that the defrost thermostat must be frozen when you do this. You could hold an ice cube on it's face or just wait till it ices up again. |
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OK, Thanks i will give that a try.
We went out looking at new refrigerators today. Just gathering info at this point. What the ordering & delivery time frame would be, installation requirements, hauling away of the old unit ect. I am trying to adjust to the sticker shock of a new refrigerator. I have my fingers crossed this refrigerator will be fixable still.
Thanks
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HELP! It has been about 10 days since we put the refrigerator back together. It was running great, until a day or so ago. The temperature wasn't holding at the optimum level. I took the back panel off in the freezer. I saw that the lower evaporator coils had a thick block of ice on them. The upper coils had a thin layer of ice. The middle coils had no ice no frost on them.
I again used a hair dryer to get all the ice off the evaporator coils.
I did as you suggested by forcing a defrost cycle by turning the timer cam. I put the defrost thermostat in a cup to ice cubes. It has been about 40 minutes since I started this process. I touched both heaters they don't feel warm at all. The compressor kicked in at 50 minutes.
What can I try?
Could the new defrost heaters be faulty? Or did i install it wrong?
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[COLOR="Blue"]What can I try?[/COLOR]
All I can suggest is that you get a meter and check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat.
The defrost thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen.
I do not know what the defrost heaters should be or if they are wired in series or parallel but they both should have continuity.
If both are OK force a defrost and check that there is 120 volts going to the above.
[COLOR="Blue"]Could the new defrost heaters be faulty?[/COLOR]
Yes that is always a possibility.
Or did i install it wrong?
I do not know.
Might be time to bite the bullet and get a pro in. |
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