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alanfromtx  
#1971 Posted : Wednesday, October 29, 2014 3:30:58 PM(UTC)
alanfromtx

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Before we go further I need the complete model number of the fridge.

Gene.

Thank all of you very much for responding to my post.

The model number for the GE DSS25KGTBBB.

I checked the vents between the refrigerator and freezer side. There doesn't seem to be blockage. I verified that food is not and was not blocking the vents.

The refrigerator side always maintains the recommended temperature, 36. It might drop 1 degree to 35 when the freezer is at -9 but otherwise is always at 36 degrees.

I'm uncertain as to how the defrost timer functions so I'll have to do some research.

Thanks again for all the help.

Alan
forrestdad  
#1972 Posted : Friday, October 31, 2014 8:17:12 AM(UTC)
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just a thought, if your coils are not iced over in the freezer (a defrost issue) there is a electrically controlled damper between the freezer and fridge section. There is a possibility that this is not opening fully and making the freezer work too hard. If you remove the channel from the back of the fridge' you can manually activate it Located at the bottom of the channel to make sure it is functioning. I don't know the voltage of the actuator motor or which pins to contact but theoretically this would also check it's function and also rule out a bad motor. Hope this was a help.
chris hesselgrave  
#1973 Posted : Thursday, November 13, 2014 7:16:25 PM(UTC)
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Gene, I could not find the defrost control you discussed in the troubleshooting, so I started pulling her apart...
I pulled the rear panel out of the freezer and turned the system back on. After a few minutes, I noticed that the fan that should logically be blowing air up to the fridge was not turning. I gave it a nudge and it started to spin. It is easy to stop with a finger and it freezes up until it is purposefully spun.
Could this be the problem with my warm fridge?

Thanks, Chris

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
denman  
#1974 Posted : Friday, November 14, 2014 2:00:50 AM(UTC)
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chris hesselgrave
I am not sure if Gene is still picking up posts on this forum so I will try try help.

Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MFD2561HES Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.
Note it is for a HEQ unit. I could not find one for a HES unit.

Defrost is controlled by the main control board.
Defrost is only a problem if you inspect the evaporator coils and find that they are clogged solid with ice/frost. The evaporator fan then cannot pull air through them and cooling efficiency drops, raising the temperatures.

Check if the fan is an AC fan (just in case they went to a DC fan on a HES).
If it is then I would replace it and that should fix the problem.

A check would be to measure across it with a meter. If you get 120 volts and it does not turn then it is toast.
File Attachment(s):
MFD2561.pdf (307kb) downloaded 6 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
frosini  
#1975 Posted : Sunday, November 30, 2014 7:32:56 AM(UTC)
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Hello Gene,

My KitchenAid size by side, KSSC42QM501 also warm on refer. side but cold freezer. I've been reading this blog for tips, but what sequence should I look for trouble? Frozen coils, evaporator fan, thermistor, etc?

Best Regards,
Peter F.
Agiorgianni  
#1976 Posted : Friday, December 12, 2014 10:28:13 AM(UTC)
Agiorgianni

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Posts: 2

[FONT=Calibri","sans-serif]The appliance technician replaced the defrost timer on my refrigerator, which he said was causing the food comfortable even though the icebox was good and cold.But I&#8217;m still having the same problem. Does it sound as if what the technician was reasonable? What should I do? (Maytag PTB19BBGR)[/FONT]

[FONT=Calibri","sans-serif]Thanks! :) [/FONT]

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator &#8211; the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag &#8211; it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one &#8211; a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the &#8220;search&#8221; button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step&#8230;

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it&#8217;s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it&#8217;s frozen because if it&#8217;s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
chuckos  
#1977 Posted : Saturday, December 13, 2014 2:49:53 AM(UTC)
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I had all the symptom described here pointing to a defrost timer. I have a Frigidaire FRS26ZRFW3. I purchased a defrost timer replacement from Electrolux 215846602. I am the original owner and it was repaired about 7 years ago by an appliance repair man. He replaced defrost timer and defrost thermostat. My first question is the defrost timer I took out was a GE part 465026P03. I also noticed that the pin 1 and 3 are reversed on the one I purchased vs the GE part taken out. I called Frigidaire and they said the part I purchased is correct to verify.

After replacing my defrost timer, when I plug in the refrigerator, the GFCI trips. If I take out the defrost timer and plug it in the breaker does not trip. At this point, I am not sure what is wrong. I have read people saying not to plug it in to a GFCI outlet in the garage. But, it was at least working before I replaced the defrost timer. Thank you in advance for the help.

Charles
Conrad99  
#1978 Posted : Friday, May 29, 2015 8:33:25 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
chris hesselgrave
I am not sure if Gene is still picking up posts on this forum so I will try try help.


My GE Profile PSC23PSTA SS cost $3100 and has been nothing but trouble. I had purchased an extended warranty but that didn't prevent us from being without a fridge for most of last year. The problem was that Sears Home Services requires a new work order with 15-20 day lead time each time the previous repair fails to work. The guy came seven times over the course of four months. He spent most of his time on the phone with their service center trying to figure out which parts to replace next.

Ended up buying a cheap fridge and freezer which have worked fine, but should I really throw out this $3100 fridge completely??

My fridge isn't cooling at all. It's 60 degrees in the fridge section. The freezer works fine and the coils aren't frozen at all. Advice anyone??

I can't find any vent between the freezer and fridge sections of this Side-by-Side. There's a vent in the back of the fridge and I can hear a motor working (quietly) when I close the door but no air seems to be coming out, cold or otherwise.
Conrad99  
#1979 Posted : Friday, May 29, 2015 8:58:48 PM(UTC)
Conrad99

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Update: I took everything out of the fridge and that's where the frozen coils are. At the bottom in the back of the fridge, not the freezer. This is exactly the problem when the guy came seven times last year. He had some kind of heat gun he used to thaw the coils. I'm using a hair dryer.

So why are they freezing in the fridge section? Does this mean a fan has failed? He replaced virtually every working part in this unit last year. This GE Profile Refrigerator is the single most troublesome appliance I've owned in nearly 50 years. What a waste of money.

Can anyone recommend a good appliance brand? Samsung maybe??
al2015  
#1980 Posted : Wednesday, July 1, 2015 12:57:09 PM(UTC)
al2015

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Posts: 2

my evap fan does not go on at all I replaced it along with the temp. board and it still doesnot work. What could it be? Thanks
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