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Gene  
#381 Posted : Tuesday, April 28, 2009 2:19:12 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Victor,

Perform the troubleshooting as described on the first page in this thread and post the results.

Gene.
alycia  
#382 Posted : Tuesday, May 5, 2009 5:06:10 AM(UTC)
alycia

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Would this process hold true for all makes and models?
Jaime Perez  
#383 Posted : Tuesday, May 5, 2009 9:27:22 AM(UTC)
Jaime Perez

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woodchuckie its been about week since i intalled new parts and no frost build- up but my freezer wont freeze. both fans works fine, and its seems that feezer fan never shuts off stays on 24/7 i don't think thats right to stay on
Jaime Perez  
#384 Posted : Tuesday, May 5, 2009 9:36:38 AM(UTC)
Jaime Perez

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ooops ! againe thanks woodchuckie
rhodes2010  
#385 Posted : Friday, May 8, 2009 2:34:08 PM(UTC)
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I started reading this first panel and hav eto comment.....
The SAMSUNG line that use "TwinCooling" does NOT follow this model.
The samsung twin cooling has a separate set of coils in each side,
a separate fan, no vent between freezer and fridge.
One compressor though.
And , further, the Samsung products have a notorious problem because
there is no drain at all on the fridge side. Water builds up, freezes
the coils, fridge gets warm.




Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
Dod  
#386 Posted : Wednesday, May 13, 2009 11:19:07 AM(UTC)
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Sorry if this has already been answered but I could not find the answer I needed. I have a GE Model TFX26GR side by side refrigerator. I have checked for a defrost problem (ice on freezer coils) and the freezer coils are frost free. The freezer compartment stays pretty much between -5 and 10 degrees F. The refrigerator however barely gets below 50F now. Up until a week or so ago, the refrigerator stayed at 40F which is recommended I believe. The fan which blows cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator seems to be working. At least it runs and you can feel a slight flow of air from the duct opening in the refrigerator.

We had a repairman look at it and he gave up. He did not have a technical repair manual at his disposal so he was going by general characteristics.

While the refrigerator still keeps food cool, we are worried that it may go totally out and I would like to get it fixed before we are between a rock and a hard place. These refrigerators are not cheap.

Thanks for your help.
woodchuckie  
#387 Posted : Wednesday, May 13, 2009 12:04:16 PM(UTC)
woodchuckie

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It sounds to me like the damper is not opening far enough to allow the cold air into the fridge. Post your model number to find a diagram of your damper controls.
Dod  
#388 Posted : Wednesday, May 13, 2009 12:27:27 PM(UTC)
Dod

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Thanks for responding. I put in my refrigerator model number but they came back with no part image.

I forgot to mention that I am in living Mexico so getting parts is not painless. Are there some diagnostics I can do that would increase my chances of getting the right part.

Here is what I have done so far. When I slide the freezer temperature slider to the left (warmer freezer temperature), the airflow from the duct carrying air from the freezer to the refrigerator increases. If I slide the freezer temperature bar all the way to the right (lowest freezer temperature) the airflow from the duct seems to shut off. It looks like the refrigerator gets whatever the freezer doesn't need so there is some sort of balance between the freezer and the refrigerator. Is this the way it is supposed to work?

Anything else I could try to nail this down?

Thanks.
woodchuckie  
#389 Posted : Wednesday, May 13, 2009 12:57:27 PM(UTC)
woodchuckie

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You should also have a separate slider or control for just the fridge temp which directly opens and closes the damper.

Try your model number here. Searching Model #TFX20JAWAXX | 0 Suggested Models | SearsPartsDirect.com
Dod  
#390 Posted : Wednesday, May 13, 2009 4:45:50 PM(UTC)
Dod

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Thanks. After messing with what I think were the dampers the fridge seems to be cooling more normally. Perhaps they got stuck or something. I don't know for sure but I will take it.

Thanks again.
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