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Originally Posted by: ShadeTree231  I also have one of these Centennial washers. Mine has only been used probably 25-30 times is all. My Maytag washer mvwc300xw0 does pretty much this exact same thing, too. It will run thru the wash cycle fine and when it reaches the spin cycle, it will start the spin and then I'll hear a kind of sound like something switches abruptly, sometimes more than twice or three times, kind've like a power relay switching. Then the lid lock light starts flashing and then it will slowly come to a stop but the lid lock light will continue to flash for a few minutes and then it eventually turns off but the spin light still will stay on and it then just sits....
I did do a fault scan, and three of the codes that I could decipher are 1) something to do with the main control, I think, 2) for something related to basket speed not reached, and 3) something to do with an incorrect key, or key code?
I know I'm a bit vague. I'll try harder next time I have time to mess with this machine... Shadetree231 did you ever find out what the problem was. the issue you describe are closest to the one I'm having.
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Originally Posted by: craigsm Shadetree231 did you ever find out what the problem was. the issue you describe are closest to the one I'm having. I'm not shadetree but I'd bet it's the actuator. Do yourself a favor and change it. $30ish dollar part and easy to change. Drain the washer, unplug it, slide it out from the wall and tip it back and rest the top against the wall so you can get underneath. From there it's pretty obvious. While you're doing it you may want to replace the drive belt (also simple). If not at least inspect it while you're under there.
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Based on a lot of research I was assuming my problem was the actuator. At first my washer wasn't spinning, now it stays in sense mode when stared, hums but doesn't spin, and the pump kicks on. Replaced the actuator & nothing changed. Machine won't enter diagnosis mode, picking up a voltmeter in the morning to start testing the individual parts. Any ideas out there?
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bummer Cdecastro81, seems like you're in the minority. :( Did you go through the diagnostics to see what codes your unit is throwing? Washer Tech Sheet - W10280489BTW, they say "rotate.... and wait.... " just rotate the knob, the only thing waiting did in my case was not work. Good luck!
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Tried running the diagnostic program for half an hour again this morning, between that not working and the fact the now all it does is humming while the water pump is running and the sense light is on, I'm thinking circuit board. Gonna grab a voltmeter in few, been having a lot of problems with my lg dishwasher too, sure I'll end up using it. Both were purchased 22 months ago, I've already had half the dishwasher replaced professionally before the warranty expired. Seems like a trend thanks for the reply.
Didn't get out of the house to get the tools so I kept messing around. I was able to get the manual diagnosis to work, showing a problem with the pump. Going to keep going tonight after work with the volt/ohm meter.
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Unfortunately the problems that you are experiencing are very common to this washer type... The good news is that swapping out the actuator/tub sensor is very simple. The other problem that has been common with this washer is the main drive pulley becoming loose and not properly driving the tub or agitator/wash-plate. I have created a repair guide to help with diagnostics, error codes and troubleshooting common problems... Maytag Centennial Washer Repair GuideHere is a video on YouTube that explains this washer's diagnostic, error code system https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY3vcPysPXEHope it helps!
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I have read all the threads and I want to add a twist. I have all the same symptoms as everyone else but with a slight twist. After the lock light goes off, and the spin light is still on, I can take the drain hose, lay it on the floor, drain about 2 cups of water and it will spin if I hit the start button again. Anybody ever have this issue?
Mike
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Having very similar problems as harlyworkr I literally just replaced lid lock and actuator. I can't run any manual tests that are important because in manual mode the lid won't lock even though it locks in auto test or a regular cycle. Really aggravating because I can't test the spin or any of the tests I'm suppose to. Any ideas?
I get error code f7e1 Basket Speed Sensor Fault
also harlyworkr if I leave it in regular cycle long enough the lid will unlock.
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I have a maytag centennial washer that wont drain or go into the spin cycle, I have noticed that where the lid (door) closes where it locks I see burn marks can this be where the problem
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