Onset of the problem: Dryer loaded and operating, wife smells what she describes as burning rubber, checks dryer and finds outer cabinet is hot to touch, opens door dryer stops. Now its husbands (my) problem. Unit will run, igniter will not glow. Continuity OK @ flame sensor, OHMs good @ igniter, thermal fuse OK. I have 120V to "ground" found at igniter connector with door switch jumped and drive motor running (belt off drum). No 120V across igniter connector? Appears neutral is missing? Traced neutral back to multi-pin connector on motor. Wiring diagram shows a NO contact between 2M (source) to 1M igniter (opposite ends of the connector) for neutral. Contact appears to be internal to the motor? It was late so I didn't look at the 2M source side to see if my neutral was there.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Eric, I give that a try along with checking the incoming neutral to the motor centrifugal switch, something I neglected to try yesterday.

Not likely the flame sensor. More likely a bad ignitor. If ignitor was good and flame sensor had dirty contact, there would be a voltage drop across those bad contacts and voltage at ignitor would not be 120vac. If you have 120vac across ignitor (with ignitor connected) and it doesn't glow, then it's bad. Probably broken as they are very fragile. If you are unplugging the ignitor to check voltage, that doesn't tell you everything. You must check voltage while it's connected. If voltage is low, then you know you have a bad connection somewhere (motor switch or flame sensor or elsewhere). To determine where problem is requires checking voltage across those components with everything connected and dryer running. If there is significant voltage across the motor switch for example, then those contacts are faulty.

Eric

Pulled the drum, jumped the door switch and turned on the dryer. Black DVM lead to ground. Used the other DVM lead to check for V before and after flame sensor, igniter, & cent switch on motor getting 121V anywhere I touch. New igniter @ 61.5 ohms, original igniter I though was bad @ 102.6 ohms, near 0 ohms at flame sensor and cent switch. Main sol coil @ 1.3k ohms assist sol coil (3pins) @ .58k, 1.9k, & 1.3k. using all pin combinations, any suggestions? :confused: Am I doing something wrong? I hate to give up now especially since I've become so proficient is disassembling the dryer in record time!
Thanks
Joe maybe I can't fix everything?

The open neutral was the thermal cutout on the back of the dryer hot air inlet duct. Traced it that far and then jumped it an the igniter started to glow right away. It appears there is also a hi temp switch in series with the fused cut out device and it is recommended that also be replaced. I will do that. All my ducting is clean so I'm not sure why this would occur? My wife says that the dryer occasionally feels like it is running hot according to touching the cabinet. The only theory I could come up for this occasional heat with was that a very lightweight article of clothing would get stuck across the exit vent inside the drum restricting the air flow? I plan on replacing the thermal unit Friday so if anyone has comments on what else to look for as the cause of the thermal fuse opening please let me know.
Thanks
joe