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After setting the timer to dry for 60 minutes, it turned for about 30-40 mins and then it stopped turning, causing the dryer continue to heat (the dial stays at the position 10-20 minutes before ending). Do I need to replace the timer or to clean it up? I read somewhere that the moisture sensor may be dirty. If so, where is that sensor and what an effective way to clean it? Thanks! Edit: I found the post. It was from denman in this same forum. Hi Denman, if you are reading this post, could you point/show me where the two metal strips are, I'd appreciate it very much. TIA! denman's original post is the third post in the link below. http://forum.appliancepartspros...rmanent-press-cycle.html
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Rank: Member
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Ah, it is timed, not auto dried.
Is replacing the timer the only way to fix it? The timer is about $40 (used on ********) and I am wondering if the dryer worth this investment since it is 14 years old.
Thank you!
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Well, your dryer has both timed and auto dry cycles. If you only use timed dry, then you could jump timer terminals TM to X and that should fix the problem but then it won't work properly in auto dry cycle.
Eric
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When you said jump, you meant to connect. TM with X, right ? I am not very good at DIY but I can fix some computers :). Is this a difficult fix? Thanks a lot!
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Unplug the dryer and open the control panel. If you do not intend on using auto dry cycle and only use timed dry or knit cycle, remove the resistor that is connected between terminals TM and R. Disconnect the terminal with two tan wires from terminal X and plug it into terminal TM where you removed the resistor. Run the dryer. If the problem still occurs then the problem with the timer is mechanical (inside timer) and timer would have to be replaced.
Eric
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Thanks Eric. I opened up the control panel. I don't see anything connected to the TM terminal. The two tan wires already connected to the X terminal. X and TM seem to be linked at the base. I don't see a resister between TM and R because TM terminal is left open. I did find a resistor on the other side connecting M and U, maybe they are unrelated. I attached two images about the timer. blueking attached the following image(s):
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The resistor is the jumper between terminal R and TM. This is the difficulty of trying to do this over an internet forum. Remove the white jumper wire between R and TM. Terminal X and TM are not the same, terminal TM is the one on the right in your photo. R has two terminals, X has two terminals, TM has two terminals. After removing the jumper, move the tan wires terminal from X to TM and see if that fixes your problem. The other resistor has to do with heat selection. Don't mess with it.
Eric
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Ah, now I got you. Each terminal has two pins. I misunderstood the markings before you explained it. Now I have the wired reconnected as you described. Could you double check what I did in the attached picture. I left the white resister wire hanging right now (one end still on R). I will use electric tape to wrap it up before putting the timer back. Terminal X has no connections anymore. I don't want to mess it up. It is ok that this doesn't fix it, but I don't want it to cause a fire or some other disaster :-). If it doesn't take too long to explain, could tell me why this change will fix it? BTW, I don't see how it will do auto cycle, so we have been using timed cycle all these years. Thanks again! Qing blueking attached the following image(s):
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Yes, that is correct but I would just remove the jumper resistor entirely as that free hanging terminal on the unconnected end will have 120vac on it when dryer is running. By moving the tan wires to terminal TM we are bypassing the internal timer contact that provides constant power to the timer motor when in timed dry cycle. Apparently, that contact is opening at some point as the timer advances. It should stay closed all during the timed dry cycle. Why do you say you don't see how it will do auto cycle?
Eric
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