Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
Feel the compressor, if vibrating but no cooling and the condenser motor is running, you have refrigeration problems, Freon leak/bad compressor.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/28/2014(UTC) Posts: 1
|
Gene wrote "open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced." However, this GE manual - http://www.geappliances.com/sea.../older-pdfs/49600212.PDF - on page 29 writes that "Water dropping on the defrost heater causing a sizzling, hissing or popping sound during the defrost cycle" is a "normal operating sound"
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/19/2014(UTC) Posts: 2
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 1
|
Have been following your advice - thanks:) Defrost working, compressor working but fan still stationary!! Temp control circuit closed - what's left?? Fridge is Frigidaire FRT124FWO, have wiring diagram from Frigidaire, but temp control not shown! Have found identical (?) fridge GE GTR12HAXRWW manual. It shows a "Terminator/fuse link" but it's not shown on the wiring diagram so I don't know how it works/what circuit(s) it affects. Does my Frigidaire version have one of these? Suggestion what to check would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/11/2014(UTC) Posts: 2
|
Hi Gene or an expert.
A few month ago, it was noted that the top part of the freezer was warmer, but not the bottom. The refrigerator section was starting to warm too. Unplugged the fridge, cleaned the coils in the compressor compartment. Plugged in and noted that the condenser motor was not running, and the compressor would run and then stop. Evaporator motor was not coming on. Anyway, a few plugging and un-plugging seemed to fix the issue. It worked fine and then every 4 to 6 weeks the same issue and it would fix itself (quick unplug and then plug). Finally called a repair person. He said that several things could be wrong: including low Freon, defective evaporator assembly, condenser fan etc. He also said needs new main board too. The compressor was running at 0.65 AMPs and unit has "pantal (?)" frost pattern.
The fridge has been well taken care of and looks as if bought last week!. Since the machine works 100% most of the time, I am lost and don't believe it is low Freon. Any thoughts? I am tempted to believe that it is the MB.
Thanks in advance
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/31/2014(UTC) Posts: 1
|
Hi, i have a frigidaire PLHS39EESS2 and the fridge randomly stopped working but the freezer worked fine (fine for atleast a day or 2 before it stops working as well). The display was flashing 4 which leads to a damper control problem, i ordered a new damper control, properly installed it and i'm getting the same error code 4 and the fridge still doesn't work. Recently the filter was leaking water for months and we were too lazy to replace it could that have anything to do with anything? What else could possibly be the problem/ how would i figure this out?
Thanks, Matt
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/30/2014(UTC) Posts: 1
|
We moved into a house with a big honking Viking fridge that doesn't work right. The fridge stays between 42 and 50 degrees even on coldest setting, and the freezer drain plug ices up and ice sheets across the bottom until it leaks on the floor. I am replacing the fridge gasket since it has a foot crack in it and is brittle, and when I removed the old one I discovered that the fridge door liner is cracked in lots of places. Is that a functional part of the fridge that I must also replace, like it won't keep cold with those cracks there, or is it largely cosmetic and the heavy construction of the door itself should keep it cool in there? I am guessing anyway that something else is also wrong, because if the fridge knew it wasn't cold enough from door leaks, I'm assuming it would be constantly running trying to reach temp.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/10/2014(UTC) Posts: 11
|
hey thank you for your very detailed advice. I looked up my diagram for my GE profile bottom freezer model no.GE PDS20SBRALSS and was un able to find the 'defrost timer' to use your trouble shooting method. Is it possible that mine is electronic and on main the board? At my wife's request I paid a pro to come and 'fix' the problem and he replaced the condenser fan motor after a week and left with the check, one week later the ice dam still forms. Any advice about trouble shooting this model would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/28/2014(UTC) Posts: 2
|
Hi Gene, Is there a defrost timer on this Kenmore 59665232402? If so can you show me where to locate it. thanks, Vinh.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/29/2014(UTC) Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: Gene Before we go further I need the complete model number of the fridge.
Gene. Thank all of you very much for responding to my post. The model number for the GE DSS25KGTBBB. I checked the vents between the refrigerator and freezer side. There doesn't seem to be blockage. The refrigerator side always maintains the recommended temperature, 36. It might drop 1 degree to 35 when the freezer is at -9 but otherwise is always at 36 degrees. I'm uncertain as to how the defrost controller functions so I'll have to do some research. Thanks again for all the help. Alan
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close