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Parts for Whirlpool LTE6234DQ2 Washer Dryer Combo - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

[COLOR="Blue"]3rd-tested voltage and conductivity to all three parts.[/COLOR]
I am assuming that the voltage was checked with a meter.
Did he do a live test (dryer on and in a heating cycle) at the terminal strip to be sure that 240 volts is there when the unit's heater calls for current?
If not would do that just be very very careful as 240 volts is lethal.

If the voltage is OK then unplug the unit and attach (tape or clip) one meter lead to the L1 prong of the line cord.
Use the most sensitive meter scale and short the meter leads together before starting to see if there is a zero offset in the meter.

Now work your way back thru the heater circuit.
So black at the terminal strip, red on the timer , both sides of the operating thermostat , both sides of the thermal fuse , both sides of the thermal cutoff , both sides of the Hi-limit thermostat should all read 0 ohms.

The hi-limit side of the heater should be 0 ohms.
The other side of the heater should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Same goes for 1M at the centrifugal switch on the motor.

If all OK then either the centrifugal switch on the motor is toast or there is a problem with the L2 wire going to it.

I do not see my attachment as part of my earlier post so here it is.


[COLOR="Blue"]When I put the tester lead on L1 and go thur all everything reads 8 ohms now what[/COLOR]
If by the above you mean that all the test points in my previous post read 8 ohms then I am stumped.