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Joined: 1/26/2014(UTC)
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Hi,
I have a Kenmore 70 series model 110.82873120 that agitates but no longer spins during the spin cycle. I have diagnosed that the transmission has failed. I took the machine apart, inspecting the clutch, motor, motor transmission coupler, upon investigating the transmission, I see that it will agitate, but will not spin.
I would like to replace the transmission, however, are there any other parts I should look at that might have caused the transmission to fail? I don’t want to replace the transmission and have it fail because another part is bad.
I have inspected the basket brake, it is not dragging. I am more concerned that due to its age, it does not brake like it used to. I expect that the basket will take more time to spin down simply because the brake has worn over the years, will this additional spin down time of the basket stress the transmission causing it to fail?
Thanks for your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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While the transmissions on these machines do fail, the cause of your problem is more likely a worn clutch band. This is not visible to the naked eye. If you manually turn the transmission and the clutch housing turns then your transmission is likely ok.
If you have reassembled the transmission I suggest you reinsert it along with a new clutch lining. If that does not fix the problem then you could go ahead and replace the transmission along with brake pads.
These machines last a long time and this repair should easily give you 10 to 20 years more life.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/26/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Thank you for posting.
Before taking anything apart, I ran the washer through its cycles and noted that when the washer tries to spin, the basket will not move at all, even when it is empty (empty meaning no water and no clothes). Agitate cycle ran fine.
While I had the transmission out of the machine, I tried to move the internal part of the clutch while holding the outer part. It was very stiff. Clutch pads appeared in very good condition.
I adapted the motor transmission coupler to a drill motor. Using the drill motor to run the input of the transmission, I ran the drill motor in one direction, the transmission shaft agitated. Running the drill motor in the opposite direction, the clutch (spin cycle) would not move at all. I am confident that it is the transmission.
I would simply replace the basket brake pads along with the transmission, however I was not able to find a separate set of brake pads for this model. I was able to find the whole "Basket Drive and Brake Assembly" unit, unfortunately this costs $125.00, along with even a rebuilt transmission, was more then I would like to invest.
The brake pads on my washer do look in good shape, just concerned with age that they are not doing the job that they used to, if this won't stress the transmission, then their performance from my view point is more than adequate.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Good diagnosis and thanks for the detail. It does sound like you confirmed that the spin problem was the transmission.
You may be able to service the brakes, see the Sticky on direct drive brakes near the top of the washer repair page by Richappy. It is very good.
As long as you are not concerned about the safety issue, you can run the machine with less than effective brakes, it should not hurt anything.
BUT MAKE SURE YOU ARE COMFORTABLE ON THE SAFETY ISSUE!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Brake shoes are available if you want them. Whirlpool 285438 Brake Shoe - AppliancePartsPros.com Excessive spin down time will not hurt the gearcase as it will only cause the clutch to drive the spin pinion and spin gear in the gearcase. Your gearcase is repairable if you want to tear into it. The problem is either the spin gear is stripped, the spin pawl is worn or broken, or the spin pawl stud has sheared off. I can help if you want to try to fix it. Eric
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/26/2014(UTC)
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Thanks for your help. Definitely do not want it to be a safety hazard.
Thanks Eric for your offer, given that I have too many open projects already :) I opted for a rebuilt gear case.
The change out was quick and the unit is up and running very nicely. I checked how long it takes for the basket to stop spinning after I lift the lid during the spin cycle. It took less then 3 seconds to come to a complete stop.
We bought this unit new over 20 years ago, and we rarely open the lid during a spin cycle…so I don’t have a good reference on how fast it should stop, but under three seconds seems good.
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