As the only water line through the back section of the freezer is the ice maker line, you might try turning the ice maker off and turning the water back on. There can be a considerable amount of water flow depending on how much frost has built up on the evaporator. Once you have turned the water back on, try turning the ice maker back on to verify if the ice maker line is leaking or not.check and post your results.

i am a typical female i better go wake up someone, i have no idea i should of been a natural blonde.

I doubt anyone will tell you that everything is OK since we are not there to actually diagnose the problem.

But I can tell you how defrost works which is what I think you are seeing.

Your fridge has auto defrost.
Some are controlled by a defrost timer, some by an adaptive defrost cotrol board and some from the main control board.
It really does not matter.
Any ways every 8 hours or so a defrost cycle is started.
This is for a fixed time period, half an hour or so.
A heater that is at the bottom of the evaporator coils in the freezer is turned on.
The compressor, the evaporator/freezer fan is shut off and the condenser/compressor fan is shut off.
The heater then melts the frost that has built up on the evaporator coils.
If the frost was allowed to build up to the point where it blocks/clogs the evaporator coils then the freezer would not coll properly.
Also clipped to the top of the evaporator coils is a defrost thermostat.
It opens just above freezing.

So the unit starts a half hour defrost cycle, the heater turns on and the frost melts and may drip onto the heater causing a sizzle.
But lets say that all the frost has melted off after 15 minutes.
Then the defrost thermostat opens. This kills power to the defrost heater and prevents too much heat from being generated and warming up the freezer.
When the half hour defrost cycle is over the compressor and d=fans start up.

You may have a problem with the defrost thermostat not opening when it should.

NOTE: The above is for the most common defrost method. Modern GE made units do it differently. They use thermistors to detect the defrost temperature and the defrost thermostat is just a safety device.

One way to check this is to put a bowl of ice cubes in the freezer. If after a couple defrost cycles they are all frozen together then you have a defrost problem re: too much heat is being generated and is warming up the freezer compartment.

Another possibility is that you have a door leak.
This lets warm moist air into the unit which condenses on the evaporator coils as frost causing the defrost cycle to run linger than it should.
Check that the door seals are clean.
Check that the seals look OK.
Check that the hing side of the seals are not grabbing onto the frame and twisting when the door closes. This can be usually be fixed with a light coating of white lithium grease or vaseline on the seal.
Take a two inch strip of paper and place it between the frame and the seal.
Then shut the door and pull the paper out to check the seal.
Work your wat around both doors every 6 inches or so.

So glad this information was available. Recent homeowner and wasn't aware of this so was concerned when son brought to my attention. Glad I found info when I goggled it otherwise it would have cost for tech to do nothing

I heard a sizzling sound tonight in my freezer, took out the bottom drawer and noticed the coil red hot in the back. I got worried it could burn up. I decided to search online for a reasoning behind this and came across this page. I am glad that it is a normal process and can feel comfortable about it. I wanted to leave my comment to let you know that I as well thank you for your honest input.