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Snarlybarley  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, November 20, 2013 6:44:40 AM(UTC)
Snarlybarley

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/20/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1

I recently inherited a Whirlpool Duet dryer (WED9200SQ1). When it was given to me I was told it was "taking a little longer to dry things." I assumed it was the moisture sensors and immediately replaced them. The dryer worked for about two weeks, then when I went to dry a load, the machine would power on, but only would display "sensing" and not start the cycle. There was no error code on the display. After doing some research I decided to test the thermal fuse and thermistor, both show no continuity so I replaced them. While I was at it, and because of the age of the dryer, I decided to put in a new thermal cut-out fuse kit and thoroughly vacuum/clean out the entire dryer especially the exhaust. The dryer was put back together and I did not bother to hook up the exhaust pipe until I determined the dryer was going to run properly. The dryer now runs, all lights and controls work, but the heating element remained on no matter if the dryer was in the high/low or air cycle. The heating element tested fine on the multimeter, but I decided to replace that just in case I was missing something. The new heating element did not make any difference...it still remains on during all levels of heat/air. I loved the dryer the couple of weeks it worked for me and I almost feel I'm too far in $100 to stop now with the repair. Besides that, I hate unsolved mysteries!!! Where to next??? What am I missing?
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Appliance Ninja  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, November 20, 2013 6:53:51 AM(UTC)
Appliance Ninja

Rank: Member

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Joined: 11/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 957

If the machine is staying on, even in the no heat cycles, the relay for the heater is likely welded closed. You can test that with a meter by removing the top panel and locating the relay with the black and red wire on it. Remove the red wire and tape it off. Start the dryer in a no heat cycle and measure between the terminal the red wire was on and ground, looking for 120 VAC. If you have voltage there, the board will need to be replaced. Now, this is not a common type failure. Usually, a shorted heating element will cause this, but you replaced the element. You can test it just to be sure, though. Measure from the heating element terminals to ground, looking for continuity. If you show continuity, the element is shorted. Let me know what you find!
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