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reckless67  
#1 Posted : Sunday, October 27, 2013 1:50:44 PM(UTC)
reckless67

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We did a self clean on our Maytag in wall oven for the first time, and came back to it only to find no lights on the oven control panel and the door is still locked. Checked the breaker and it wasn't tripped but have reset it multiple times but nothing. I've read that there could be a thermal fuse blown but now I can't even remove the door in order to get the oven out of the wall! Am I going to be able to get this oven out of the wall?

Thanks
Steve
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reckless67  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, October 29, 2013 3:30:50 PM(UTC)
reckless67

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Well I was able to get the oven out of the wall, just 2 screws hold it in and were barely accessible. I took the back off and found what I assume is the thermal fuse, but I am not 100% sure. Can someone verify this is the part and if I check the continuity of it and its open then I need to replace this?

ThanksUserPostedImageUserPostedImage
reckless67  
#3 Posted : Friday, November 1, 2013 9:41:26 AM(UTC)
reckless67

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I replaced this part and still nothing at the front panel. I think the main control panel may be fried, and this is something like $270 cdn. :(

This sucks.
Is there anyone on this forum that actually helps? The reason i ask is I have had over 90 views but not one reply?
denman  
#4 Posted : Friday, November 1, 2013 11:35:26 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for MEW7530AS - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

The thermal cutoff (fuse) you show kills power to the emlements not the control board.

The fuse you want to find is item 7 in section 04.
It kills power to the control board.
The parts do not show a picture of it but it may be a bullet like device or just a lump in the wiring.
It is probably in the black wire going to P6 (control board)

I am assuming that you have checked the power going to the following.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Blue"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

I can only speak for myself but I did see your earlier post.
I did not answer because you wanted to know how to remove it from the wall and I had no idea how it was installed. A lot of the time ovens are installed in ways that do not resemble how the units actual install instructions say so I cannot be helpful.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
reckless67  
#5 Posted : Friday, November 1, 2013 1:53:49 PM(UTC)
reckless67

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First off, thanks for your reply.
Next, just to let you know that I am a licensed electrician so I am fairly familiar with electronics etc.
After read your post i looked a little closer and found what appears to be a fuse of some sort (see photos) and the info off it is: Microtemp, SZBAZF, G4A01, TF077C. I pulled the connectors off each end and rang it and its open?

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

Could this be the fuse that I need to replace? It does lead right to the circuit board to a plug with 'L1' for the black.
denman  
#6 Posted : Friday, November 1, 2013 11:24:43 PM(UTC)
denman

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Yes that is a thermal fuse.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
reckless67  
#7 Posted : Saturday, November 2, 2013 7:16:46 AM(UTC)
reckless67

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I ordered a replacement for this, so I hope this does it! I was thinking it might be the main board.
reckless67  
#8 Posted : Monday, November 11, 2013 4:23:40 PM(UTC)
reckless67

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Well I have success and have my oven working again. I guess wall ovens weren't made to take the heat that is produced during a self clean. I blew 2 thermal fuses during my first self clean! If I had hired a repair man god only knows what I would have had to pay!
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