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Yes, the drill method is better as you can't rotate it very fast by hand.
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Originally Posted by: DaveD69  I am able to rotate it by hand but it does take some effort but there is no scraping brake noise as before. Is using a drill a better method to test this? By the way after testing the motor to the side with success and reinstalling it.....HUMMMmMmsssss We'll I replaced the capacitor and it did not have the result I was hoping for. I pulled the pump and motor and attached my drill to the motor coupler and the agitator and basket all spinned properly. Should my next endeavor be to replace the motor start switch? The contacts look fairly well burned up and almost gone. Would the motor still run properly out of the washer as it did if this switch is defective. I cleaned out the switch and contacts as best I could and installed the motor back on the washer but left off the pump. When I turned it on it started to barely move ( that's an improvement) and then started to hum again. I noticed in the switch that the contacts are made up on the motor wire ends, does that mean I need to replace the motor and not just the switch?
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If the switch is faulty, you only need to replace it, not the whole motor. You just unplug the wires from the switch and plug into the new one. Really need to take some voltage measurements at the motor when it is just humming. The problem could be the motor switch, speed select switch at the control panel or the motor. I can't find the wiring diagram for you washer, can you provide a clear photo of it? It should be behind the control panel. This washer has a 3 speed motor whose speed is selected by the speed select switch, probably labeled fabric selector or something like that. Here is the part number for the motor switch if you want to replace it. Whirlpool 8529896 Motor Start Switch - AppliancePartsPros.comEric
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Here's the wiring diagram, after your last post I tried selecting different speed selections but it had no effect. I really appreciate your expertise. I rebuilt the switch using another one I had but that did not make any difference except it seems like the transmission sounds like it is trying to change gears so it must be getting a better connection with the new contacts on the switch. DaveD69 attached the following image(s):
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Check the connections at the motor, especially the white wire and wht/blk wire looking for burnt/corroded terminals. Also check the connections at the motor thermal overload switch. Seems like your getting a voltage drop due to a bad connection or contact in timer, speed switch or motor connectors. With speed switch set for hi/hi, check the voltage across the motor connector blue and white/black wires, should be 120vac when in spin mode. Need to check agitation. You can disconnect the wires and jump out the violet and tan wires on the pressure switch to avoid filling the washer.
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Check the connections at the motor, especially the white wire and wht/blk wire looking for burnt/corroded terminals. Also check the connections at the motor thermal overload switch. Seems like your getting a voltage drop due to a bad connection or contact in timer, speed switch or motor connectors. With speed switch set for hi/hi, check the voltage across the motor connector blue and white/black wires, should be 120vac when in spin mode. Need to check agitation. You can disconnect the wires and jump out the violet and tan wires on the pressure switch to avoid filling the washer.
Eric WILL Do, thanks. Dave
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Eric, I checked the connections, All look ok. I checked them all real good yesterday when I was changing out Motor Start Switch. There are no corroded or burnt wires anywhere on the motor nor does it have a burnt smell.
Now as far as the voltage testing: Voltage was consistent on both the spin cycle and the agitate cycle ( HUMS ON BOTH ) voltage was 105-106 volts.
Outlet Voltage 123 V.
My wife also has told me that the Slow/delicate speed has not worked for some time.
Does this indicate that the speed control switch is out? Can I rule out the motor yet? Maybe I should buy both and return what I don't need. Waiting on your expertise. thanks again.
Dave
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You can bypass the speed switch in spin mode by disconnecting and jumping the orange/blue wire to the blue wire. Jumper must be 16 gauge wire and a good tight connection as it carries full motor current. If that doesn't work, I would try replacing the motor.
Eric
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Tried the switch jump,Still hums. I'll try the motor replace.
thanks, I'll keep you posted on outcome, probably will be weekend before im done...have to work.
DAVE
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Also check for 120vac across the red and yellow wires at motor connector when motor is humming. This is power to the start winding.
Eric
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