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LG electric dryer with no heat. An appliance tech diagnosed the issue to the control board. Due to his absurdly high part and service quote, I took over the project.
-Cleaned out the 16' long exhaust pipe to the wall outside as well as circulation pipe inside the dryer. New duct pipe. The heat would come back but still the same issue.
-Replaced the control board as the tech had mentioned with a new one from this site. The dryer heat was now back on and stayed on for longer but as before, it's intermittent again. There was no heat whatsoever the last time I tried. :mad:
I'm now baffled. :confused: What could it be and what should I be checking next? Please help!
Thank you very much!
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Here are your parts Parts for LG DLE5977S / ATTEEUS Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a manual although it is not for a DLE5977 (re: a 5932) it should at least give you an idea how LG puts dryers together. I do not have access to most LG tech info. You will have to join the site to be able to download the manual. http://appliancejunk.com...wnloads;sa=view;down=197Since I do not know what the tech did to diagnose the problem you will have to start from scratch. First I would check the power. The motor and controls will work of of 120 volts but the heater requires the full 240. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Do this with the heater off and on. [COLOR="Blue"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR] Note that since the control is electronic removing power may reset the board which could lead you down the wrong path. So you may want to check the voltages at the terminal strip before flipping the breaker. Check the wiring for the heating coil and thermistor for a loose connection ar a bad wire etc. Next would be to check the hi-limit and safety thermostats. Ten the thermistor. |
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Originally Posted by: denman 
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
Note that since the control is electronic removing power may reset the board which could lead you down the wrong path. So you may want to check the voltages at the terminal strip before flipping the breaker.
Thanks for your response Denman. I plan to work on what you have suggested. Need some clarifications per above. First, not sure what you meant by "the wrong path". You want me to check the terminal strip of the dryer (as the first step, basically) while live (dryer plugged in)? I know that's 240 volts and will want to absolutely make sure how to proceed here before I do anything. By heater off and on, you meant while dryer is NOT in operation (Not turned on, not spinning) and while dryer is IN operation (turned on - power on, spinning)?
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By "wrong path" I meant that if after you reset the breaker you think that the breaker was the problem so go head and dig into troubleshooting a power problem. But in reality the problem is an electronic problem on the board and shutting the power off/on reset it so in actuality it is a control board problem.
Basically one diagnosis procedure but with twp possible causes.
As to checking the power.
First check it at the receptacle/plug with the unit unplugged.
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the power at the terminal strip with the unit off.
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip with the unit on.
I do like checking power when the unit is on as most of them vibrate making the possibility of short higher so extra caution must be used.
If OK then you can start troubleshooting an actual machine problem. |
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Originally Posted by: denman
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
Wow, I didn't expect to find this since my assumptions were that the service tech would have already done this preliminary steps before isolating the issue to the dryer. At the 4-hole plug (outlet): L1 to N: 124v (Reading appears after fiddling around with the meter prongs somewhat, kind of frustrating) L2 to N: 0 (meter fluctuates b/w 0 and 5 or so) L1 to L2: 0 (meter fluctuates b/w 0 and 5 or so) At the Terminal Strip (dryer): (With the Unit power OFF) L1 to N: 124v L2 to N: ~15v L1 to L2:~91v (With the Unit power ON) L1 to N: 124v L2 to N: 124v L1 to L2: 0 Flipping the breaker off and on a multiple times has no effect. I must say, my digital multimeter fluctuates a lot and doesn't give me an expected reading right away. Not having used it much, I'm not too sure about the contacts properly touching the metal or if this is normal to expect. But I now strongly suspect the electrical issue at the plug outlet or at the breaker box (fuse?) as far as the L2 portion is concerned. Without the 240v, the heating element wouldn't come on. I hope it means the dryer itself has no issue for now. Your thoughts and suggestions, please! Thanks for working with me.
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Yes it sounds like a house wiring issue.
If you feel comfortable working with electrical you could trouble shoot this by starting with the outputs from the circuit breakers and then working your way back to the receptacle.
If you are the least bit hesitant on this I would get an electrician in. |
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