Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

2 Pages12>
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
dawydiuk  
#1 Posted : Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:45:44 AM(UTC)
dawydiuk

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 9

I noticed my fridge was warmer than normal, so I started investigating. Please note I'm new at this but learning... The first thing I found was ice in the return air in the fridge. I poured a cup of warm water (it melted the ice) hoping for an easy fix, but no luck. Next I pulled the wiring diagram and pulled the back off the freezer and started looking around(after reviewing the wiring diagram). I found lots of ice build up, which makes me think the defroster isn't working... As I pulled the back off I noticed the fan was running(to blow air into the fridge), but I believe the ice was blocking the air flow(not positive though). I turned off power to the fridge and checked continuity across the bi-metal and it was shorted(0 ohms), which I believe is good. My understanding is that this should trigger a defrost cycle, but the defroster / heating element was not running / hot. Next I disconnected the heating element and measured the resistance across it and got about 30 ohms which I understand is a good sign. If anyone out there could point me in the right direction as to what else to look at I'd really appreciate it. Also, if there is any other information or pictures I could provide I'd be happy to follow up.

Update:
I found a thread on how to enter diagnostics mode to test the defrost heater (http://www.justanswer.com/appli...t-side-side-fridge.html). I didn't hear any crackling / popping which would seem consistent with the other symptoms that point to the defroster not working. The conclusion of this thread was the electronic control needs to be replaced with out any other troubleshooting. I'm wondering if this was a valid conclusion or if it's just a swap out the most expensive part type of conclusion. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Eddie
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
dawydiuk  
#2 Posted : Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:53:44 AM(UTC)
dawydiuk

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 9

Attached are some photos to show the ice build up I'm referring to.
dawydiuk attached the following image(s):
20130817_094129.jpg
20130817_094140.jpg
denman  
#3 Posted : Sunday, August 18, 2013 4:28:26 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
I cannot find parts info on this unit are you sure it is a gs6haxb00 and not a gs6haxvb00 which does show up?

Also I cannot get tech info on it so I am assuming that the control board is what is controlling the defrost.

[COLOR="Blue"]
My understanding is that this should trigger a defrost cycle, but the defroster / heating element was not running / hot.[/COLOR]
No the defrost thermostat does not start a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is started by the control board. It monitors the door opening to determine how often a defrost cycle should occur. The defrost time is fixed, usually at around 30 minutes. The defrost thermostat opens just above freezing and is wired in series with the defrost heater.
But lest say that all the frost/ice is melted off the evaporator coils after 15 minutes then the defrost thermostat opens and kills power to the defrost heater. The defrost cycle then continues for another 15 minutes but the heater is turned off. This prevents excessive heat in the freezer during defrost.

[COLOR="Blue"]I found a thread on how to enter diagnostics mode to test the defrost heater (http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/...e-fridge.html). I didn't hear any crackling / popping which would seem consistent with the other symptoms that point to the defroster not working. The conclusion of this thread was the electronic control needs to be replaced with out any other troubleshooting. I'm wondering if this was a valid conclusion or if it's just a swap out the most expensive part type of conclusion.[/COLOR]
Yes it is a valid conclusion as long as the defrost thermostat was frozen.
It would have been better to actually see if the defrost heater came on than relying on sound. Just be careful to not burn your fingers.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
dawydiuk  
#4 Posted : Sunday, August 18, 2013 11:41:48 AM(UTC)
dawydiuk

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 9

Thank you very much for replying, I really appreciate your time.

I did provide the wrong model number, it was missing a digit sorry about that. The correct model GS6SHAXMB00.

[COLOR="Blue"]
I cannot find parts info on this unit are you sure it is a gs6haxb00 and not a gs6haxvb00 which does show up?
[/COLOR]


I attached a photo of the sticker I was referring to for the model number.

[COLOR="Blue"]
Also I cannot get tech info on it so I am assuming that the control board is what is controlling the defrost.
[/COLOR]

Any ideas of how I could confirm this. I've been assuming my specific fridge / freezer worked like other side by side whirlpool fridge / freezers but I have no way to confirm this.

[COLOR="Blue"]
No the defrost thermostat does not start a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is started by the control board. It monitors the door opening to determine how often a defrost cycle should occur. The defrost time is fixed, usually at around 30 minutes. The defrost thermostat opens just above freezing and is wired in series with the defrost heater.
But lest say that all the frost/ice is melted off the evaporator coils after 15 minutes then the defrost thermostat opens and kills power to the defrost heater. The defrost cycle then continues for another 15 minutes but the heater is turned off. This prevents excessive heat in the freezer during defrost.
[/COLOR]

Thanks for clarifying.

[COLOR="Blue"]
Yes it is a valid conclusion as long as the defrost thermostat was frozen.
It would have been better to actually see if the defrost heater came on than relying on sound. Just be careful to not burn your fingers.
[/COLOR]

If you were in my situation(assuming $110 for a new control board is a lot of money) would you be confident enough to buy a new control board based on the information so far?

Thanks again for your time and sharing your knowledge I very much appreciate it.

Thanks,
Eddie
dawydiuk attached the following image(s):
photo.jpg
denman  
#5 Posted : Sunday, August 18, 2013 12:50:36 PM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool GS6SHAXMB00 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet for this unit.

[COLOR="Blue"]If you were in my situation(assuming $110 for a new control board is a lot of money) would you be confident enough to buy a new control board based on the information so far?[/COLOR]
Yes
File Attachment(s):
GS6SH.pdf (700kb) downloaded 32 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
dawydiuk  
#6 Posted : Friday, August 23, 2013 4:33:18 PM(UTC)
dawydiuk

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 9

Today my freezer is running warm, ice is melting(not totally melted). I have the freezer on the coldest level and the fridge is also warm as it's been for the past week. My control board should be here on Monday, but I'm wondering if the freezer running warm points to a different problem or it is still likely to be the control board. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Eddie
denman  
#7 Posted : Saturday, August 24, 2013 1:22:55 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Is the condenser/compressor fan funning?
Is the compressor running?

If no to both the above then I am still leaning towards the control board.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
dawydiuk  
#8 Posted : Saturday, August 24, 2013 4:19:50 PM(UTC)
dawydiuk

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 9

I replaced the control board and after 6 hours ice in my freezer is still melting. I put the only temperature monitor I have(not sure how accurate it is) in the freezer and measured 34 degrees, then in the fridge and measured 64 degrees(both in F). I've got a pretty thick layer of ice on the back of the freezer, so I thought maybe I needed to force the defroster to turn on so I referred to the datasheet you provided. Test 1 indicated a P which I believe is pass, test 2(turn on defroster) didn't yield any obvious results. I was expecting to feel the back of the freezer wall get warm and hear the ice cracking and starting to melt. I only stayed at position 2 for a minute or two but didn't notice anything obvious. What should I look for? In test three I heard the fan turn on, and in test 4 I heard the condensor turn on. Anything else I could look for or any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Eddie
denman  
#9 Posted : Monday, August 26, 2013 6:23:35 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
I am not sure what is going on here.
It does seem like it is trying to get down to the correct temperature, at least in the freezer.

I am assuming that the compressor is always on.

It does sound like the unit is not defrosting.
But I am not sure if you would feel the heat ao the back panel.
It is best to remove the panel and check the heater itself.
Just be careful that you do not burn your fingers.

If it does not come on then unplug the unit.
Check the defrost thermostat. It should be 0 ohms when frozen. It must be frozen as it opens just above freezing.
Check the heater. it should be about 25 ohms.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
dawydiuk  
#10 Posted : Monday, August 26, 2013 8:15:30 AM(UTC)
dawydiuk

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 9

Thanks for your input I really appreciate all of your help. This morning I checked the fridge and it was 42 degrees F(at the coldest setting). I'm wondering if it's fixed... I misunderstood where the heating element was, so maybe it was working after replacing the board. I'll borrow an IR temp measure tool to get a more accurate measurement of the temperature in the fridge and freezer. If needed I'll measure the resistance. What temperatures should I expect in the fridge and freezer if both are on the coldest setting? If I'm in the range of expected temperatures I assume I don't need to measure the resistance...?
Users browsing this topic
Guest (8)
2 Pages12>
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.