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I think I understand what you're saying. Any pictures you can provide would be very helpful. If it's necessary to disassemble the trans to get the hubs/balls unstuck, is this fairly straightforward, or are there any 'tricks'? Also, and reccomendations on grease to use? Standard axle grease, white lithium, etc? Thanks again for all the help, and if you could post up some of those pictures I'd really appreciate it.
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Ok, here's the bottom of the transmission. You need to first remove the LGS (limited grip spring). It's like a slinky, just rotate it in the direction that would seem to unwind it while pulling and it should slide off.   Now, the pulley hub may be stuck on there pretty good so you may need to use a sharp putty knife to get between the hubs to work it loose and then use a couple screwdrivers, one on each side, to work it up and off the shaft.  Now you can slide the cam hub off. Be careful, some of the balls may be stuck to the underside of the hub. There is also a thin metal washer in between the cam hub and brake hub.  Now all you have to do is clean everything up real good, apply some white lithium grease into the grooves and put it back together. If you want to test it's operation by hand, you will need to use a 1/2" washer and the pulley nut to hold the pulley hub on, otherwise, turning the brake cam will just push the pulley hub down rather than operate the brake. Eric
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Well got it all apart, got the roller-lockers unstuck, cleaned and re-lubed. Put it all together, and it does the exact same thing. The first time I tried putting it into agitate (selector set to 'fast'), the whole basket and agitator slowly rotated (like a very slow spin cycle) for a few seconds before shutting off. I then put it into 'gentle' agitate and this time it just hummed for a few seconds (motor shaft spinning, but no rotation of motor pulley, belt, trans pulley, trans housing, agitator, etc). Also, when I flipped over the tub with trans/motor attached to remove the pulley, I noticed a fair bit of water (maybe a cup or 2) pouring out of a hole on the top of the trans housing (which became the bottom when I flipped the assembly upside down). I have attached a picture of the stream of water pouring out. I assume this is bad news, and indicative of a broken seal/gasket. Safe bet this is the cause of my problems? I'm guessing the trans housing isn't supposed to be full of rusty/soapy water? RocketScientist attached the following image(s):
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Yep, that oil fill hole should have a plug in it. Looks like water got into the tranny through the agitator shaft seal from under the agitator and the plug got blown out from pressure. Still doesn't explain why the brake mechanism isn't working after you fixed it. Something else going wrong there. Looks like you need a new tranny. Expensive, but worth fixing in my opinion. Iv'e put a lot of money into my 11 year old GE top loader, including tranny and motor, as I refuse to buy the junk they are selling nowadays.
Eric
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I found a trans for a little over $100 online... thats a lot cheaper than a $400 washer! One question though... what tool do you recommend for removing the large (1-1/16") left-handed nut on the top of the agitator shaft? This is required to separate the basket and trans. I can't find anyone that sells a socket that large (so I could throw on my electric impact wrench) and the only crescent or pipe wrenches that are big enough to fit a nut that large are too long to fit inside the basket (their length is greater than the radius of the basket). After fighting it for an hour, I realized the fix you suggested didn't require separating the basket/trans, so I just left it alone, but if I were to replace the whole trans I'd need to break this nut loose. Any suggestions?
Thanks again for all your help, you've been extremely helpful with your prompt replies and pictures!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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