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dh1200s  
#181 Posted : Sunday, August 4, 2013 7:37:41 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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No idea what is causing the excessive binding maybe spinner bolt torqued down excessively I torque to snug SM states ""Spinner Support Shaft Nut 64-80 ft. lbs.""

""Did I not torque it down enough?"" You have to torque down to seat Tub Seal do not over torque.

Did you remove the old tub seal sleeve during the rebuild see the 1st page of the thread for pics and the removal of the Old Tub seal sleeve.

I have not rebuilt a second gen Outer Tub that uses the lower combo One-Way Outer Tub bearing. Maybe PM forum member Ferris for some thoughts on his rebuild using the CSK207 bearing.

You have excessive binding so what is the cause?

I would back off the spinner support bolt and see if the Wash basket can rotate freely. It needs to be torque enough to seat the tub seal and not cause any biding.

If you have access to torque wrench use it. I had no issue on my series 10 Outer Tub with a best guess to 64 -80 Ft pounds......Dick
Dick
1982jj  
#182 Posted : Sunday, August 4, 2013 8:23:54 PM(UTC)
1982jj

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So i got it back apart. Bearings spin freely so i am assuming i had it torqued down too much. When i took it apart the sleeve and seal came apart from one another. Can i still use it? Or is it ruined
dh1200s  
#183 Posted : Sunday, August 4, 2013 9:29:06 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Are you talking about the sleeve in the Tub Seal? Does it look like the pic of the sleeve on the Spinner Support at the start of this thread?

If so and the tub seal and sleeve are not deformed from over torque you may be OK. Your call....... parts are in your hands give it a try.

Did you take any pics of you rebuild? If so sure would like to see them.
1982jj  
#184 Posted : Sunday, August 4, 2013 11:21:25 PM(UTC)
1982jj

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Update, i took it apart and the bearings worked fine. The sleeve wasnt deformed all i just thought that it wasnt suppose to come apart so i did not know if i could reuse it. So i put it back together loosening a little. It turns out 64lbs isnt a lot. I have a 1/2 torque wrench but to get the socket i had to step up to 3/4"drive so i wasnt able to use a torque wrench. I just used a lug nut as a guinea pig to see the amount it took to turn it at 64lbs. Turns out not a whole lot. Regardless, i have load of towels in there now and it looks to be working. No leaks. I figure once the seal was set it wont come out due to gravity and weight of tub when washing.
1982jj  
#185 Posted : Sunday, August 4, 2013 11:37:57 PM(UTC)
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Sorry no pics. I wanted to but i had such a hard time after breaking those bolts. Everything took twice as long and i never got the camera out. Thanks aagain for all the help. I will keep on eye on it and report back what i find.

I wanted to add, i had to enlarge the bolt holes on the tub to spinner support. I drilled them out a little off center so i had to move the hole a little. I used stainless on the bolts and new threads. Hopeful i can get a few more years out of this machine.
dh1200s  
#186 Posted : Monday, August 5, 2013 5:19:43 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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OK good deal...........So you used the CSK 207 One-Way bearing with success?
1982jj  
#187 Posted : Monday, August 5, 2013 7:21:02 AM(UTC)
1982jj

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Yes and no. When i had the tub out the spinner support would spin cw i. The bearing. The bearing didnt move but the support did inside the bearing. I used the spacer that i ordered. So far three loads down and no issues yet seems to be washing just f
1982jj  
#188 Posted : Monday, August 5, 2013 7:25:27 AM(UTC)
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Fine. I'll be keeping an eye on it and check in with progress or problems or to see if someone needs help. I have 4 extras shims too if folks on here need them.
dh1200s  
#189 Posted : Monday, August 5, 2013 10:01:08 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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I hope I understand if the CSK207 bearing is working properly it should allow the wash basket to spin in the CCW direction only. The wash basket should never ever rotate CW with motor/Clutch Pulley CW rotation. Motor/Clutch Pulley CW rotation is the wash/agitate direction.

You are now an expert on the FAV6800A/FAV9800A 2nd gen outer tub rebuild...........great work!

Dick
berrytc  
#190 Posted : Thursday, August 15, 2013 8:27:12 PM(UTC)
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I'm new to this forum, but have found it a wealth of information that your local repairman/washer salesman doesn't want you to know. That said, here goes with our Neptune washer saga:

The spin cycle on our Maytag Neptune Top Loader machine (about six years old) was getting increasingly louder, to the point it sounded like a freight train coming through the house. The local Maytag repairman quoted $1100 to fix it, including a new outer drum assembly. He recommended, however, that we just junk the machine and buy a new one. Since our machine is a bisque color that they don't make anymore and my wife loves the matching Neptune dryer, I started searching for a solution. I found your site and decided to give it the old DIY try, as I am normally pretty handy with tools. This machine has a serial number starting with 18, so I ordered a FAV6800 Bearing and Seal Kit 2 from NEPTUNE BEARING KIT REPLACEMENT & TONY TOOL RENTAL

The kit arrived yesterday and I started disassembly today. After removing the front of the machine, I removed the inner/outer drum assembly and removed the tumblers, the tumbler bearings, the clutch, the motor and belt and clutch. I then loosened the large nut from the main spinner shaft and removed the transmission.

I then drove out the lower tub bearing, which immediately fell apart (it was obviously the source of the noise). I noticed that this was actually a double bearing, one-half of which was completely ruined. I removed the shaft spacer and then drove out the upper bearing. Upon examination, I observed that the replacement lower bearing I got in the kit was the same thickness as the replacement upper bearing (and the old upper bearing as well) and was thinner than the original lower bearing. Before going any further, I decided to check with my local bearing supplier, who did not have a match for the original lower bearing. However, he did have some machine spacers that were the correct size for the shaft and four of them were enough to make up for the difference in thickness, so I thought I had it made.

I returned to re-assemble the drum, installing the top drum bearing first, which I drove in using a socket of the same size as the outer bearing race, insuring that it was fully seated. It was at this point I came up against the problem. Before installing the lower bearing, I decided to try a "dry" run of the bearings/spacer/shaft/seal assembly outside the drum to determine if I had the correct number of spacers to make up the difference in bearing thickness mentioned above. After measuring the assembly, I attempted to install the outer drum onto the inner drum with the seal installed in the outer drum. I discovered that I could not get the outer drum to go down far enough on the shaft to allow for the additional spacers (again to make up the difference in bearing thickness). If I left the spacers out, I could then put the nut on, but the drum seemed to be much more difficult to turn than I remembered it being with the old bearings. I tried backing off of the nut and even took it completely off again, but the drum still does not spin freely. Spinning it by hand results in maybe two revolutions before it stops.

My reputation of "Mr. Fix-it" with my wife is in jeopardy. Any help would be appreciated, please???
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