Hi,

First post here, but am long-time DIY'er.

I have a Whirlpool direct-drive washer (model # above) that I replaced the motor/transmission coupling on this past Monday. I've done this repair before on this washer and recognized the symptoms right away. Sure enough, when I got it apart, one of the hard plastic pieces was broken.

I did have some trouble putting the new coupler and motor back on-it seemed like a VERY tight fit on either side of the shaft and neither plastic part wanted to go on easily. I've not had this problem before in the 2-3 times over the last 8 years that I've had to perform this repair. Basically, it took me an hour or so to get the motor and coupler lined up and the spring clips re-attached. One thing that I did notice, is that the hard plastic portion of the coupler did not seat all the way down on the shaft on the motor side-not sure if it should.

One thing, that I regret, is that I did not pay attention to which of the 2 wires came off of which connector on the motor capacitor (both wires are the same color). So, thinking that they would be indexed in some way if it did matter, I put them back on without regard to which one went where. This, along with the problem attaching the coupler to the motor shafts, were the only two things that did not go smoothly.

Immediately after starting the 1st load after replacing the coupler, I noticed a burning smell. Additionally, there was also a faint humming noise that I don't think has been there in the past.

Since the washer operated pretty much like normal, with regards to agitation and spin, I'm assuming that the motor and the connectors on the capacitor was re-installed correctly-my logic being that if it was incorrect then NOTHING would work.

What would explain the burning smell and the hum that I hear? I've done 2 loads now and the burning smell is more apparent with the 2nd load than with the 1st. It hasn't tripped a circuit breaker, but I'm worried about damaging something permanently. Is it possible that my problem is crossed wires on the capacitor and I just need to reverse them?

I've not run another load of laundry, for fear that I'm going to burn the motor up, or otherwise permanently damage something.

Thanks in advance for all thoughts. I'm starting a new job this Friday, and would like to get this back up and running ASAP-before I start work.



Beerman_Supreme

Sidfink, thanks. I took it apart again and did as you suggested-saw a guy on U-tube that did this (appliance Mike maybe??). Don't think the last time I did this repair that there were the metal reinforced portions on the hard plastic so tapping it in place wasn't necessary. Tapped both sides down with a socket and a mallet and it seems to have fixed the problem.

I think it may be time to start searching for a new washer-I've had this one about 10 years and it wasn't new when I got it. I think it's done it's duty, but at least, for now, it's working again.

Thanks again for the help.


Beerman_Supreme

Oh, thank you both for posting all of this. This is EXACTLY what I did and how my machine responded. After putting on a new cam system in the agitator and a new motor coupling in my 20 year old Roper it did great until it got to the spin and then...oh my! I shut it off, unplugged it and had no idea what to try next. I finally came across your posts late today and went in, took it apart again and "tapped" (it felt like beating to me) the parts onto the shafts the rest of the way. I have only ran it without clothes but it did perfectly. Tomorrow I will try the real thing. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

I always try to fix my own appliances before calling someone in or replacing. The coupler on my 9 year old Whirlpool broke. When I installed the replacement (with the metal inserts), I noted they were tight and pushed them on by hand as far as I could. Everything went back together OK, it was hard to get the motor retention clips latched, but I managed. I started up the machine and it ran, a little noisy but it ran. Then there was a burning smell and soon the motor would not run. When I stripped it down again the motor was very hot, I tried a few things and convinced myself that the coupler failure was coincident with, or cause by, a motor problem. Given the age of machine I started to look for a replacement. Then I found this post, stripped it down one more time and tapped the couple parts with a hammer until they were flush with both shafts.

FIXED – thanks guys, saved me the cost of a new machine.

• Replaced coupler.
  
• Really tight fit when putting T-clips back on motor.
  
• Burning smell.
  

The same issues as above, plastic coupler components were not flush.
Hammered them down (on the metal center part with a wedge).

Works better than before...almost thought there was something broken because the agitator was so agitational!

Bought the part and learned from the video here:
http://www.********************...Drive-Motor-Coupling.htm