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Brian R  
#1891 Posted : Monday, May 13, 2013 1:06:53 PM(UTC)
Brian R

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Yes I was talking about the defrost thermostat.

I just decided to replace the defrost thermostat and the thermistor and the mother board all at once. Just could not tell if any of the two parts were working or not and they were not expensive, Since I already have the mother board, i might as well replace it.

Except for th etest you listed in the other post, is there any test I can to with the mother board to prove it was defective?
Simon / APP Team  
#1892 Posted : Monday, May 13, 2013 2:33:51 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

In my previous post I described the defrost circuit test. Did you do it? Any way this is the test witch will help to determine if the control board is good or bad.

Simon.
Brian R  
#1893 Posted : Tuesday, May 14, 2013 5:10:26 PM(UTC)
Brian R

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OK Simon,

Here is a recap.... I have a GE Side by Side GSH25KGMD. I noticed the fan in the Freezer was always running. We first noticed items in the top of the fridge freezing up between the two, I thought there was a problem. The back wall started to grow thin frost so I investigated. I removed the back wall in the freezer and the coils were completely frosted/frozen solid together where no air could move through. About two years ago I had same problem and replaced heater and all has been fine since then. I checked the heating element and I get like 22 resistance, so I guess that is good. I decide to replace the temperature sensor WR55X10025 and the defrost thermostat WR50X10068. I also replaced the mother (main) board for the refridge as well.

Its been 24 hours since the repairs. The unit is cold (18 degrees in freezer with a 4 setting) but I got a bad feeling things are not right still.

The fan in the freezer has not stopped running. The compressor in the unit does not run all the time, but the fan inside the freezer is. I dont believe the fan should be running constantly, correct? I took off the back pannel to observe the coil again. The coils had an even frost buildup throughout the coils and tubing but to me with my limited experence, I thought the frost was a little thick for only 24 hours of use.

Any info or information would be great

Brian
443-324-9720
Simon / APP Team  
#1894 Posted : Tuesday, May 14, 2013 5:23:33 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hello, Bryan.

Let the fridge work for a couple more days and then check the evaporator.

Post the results.

Simon.
Brian R  
#1895 Posted : Tuesday, May 14, 2013 5:41:08 PM(UTC)
Brian R

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will do
Any concerns that the fan is constantly running?
Brian
Gene  
#1896 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:45:55 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Brian,

There are two temperature sensors in the freezer. The first is on top of the evaporator coils and the second is on a side wall. Which one have you replaced?

What is the part number of the control board you installed?

How often did you open either of the doors? Have it been open for 3 minutes or more?

Gene.
Brian R  
#1897 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 6:18:46 PM(UTC)
Brian R

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Gene,

I replaced the temp sensor on the top of the coils, I did not replace the one on the side wall at the bottom of the freezer.

My new board number is WR55X10942. I just wonder if my old board was bad or not.

As far as the unit, I believe the fan in the freezer is running too much. Last night it did stop when the unit went into a defrost mode. The temp in the bottom of the fridge was about 25 but I could feel the heat on the back wall without removing the panel and I saw some water driping down from behind the wall also so I am sure the heater is working in the Frezzer.

This morning, the freezer tempt was about 6 to 8 degrees and the fan motor was not running. But before I left for work, it kicked on. Since I have been home, I have not found a time that the inside fan motor is not running. I did not load back anything in the freezer yet. We have limited items in the Fridge side.

I plan to take off the back panel this weekend just to take a look at the frost build up. Like I said earlier, i thought the frost was a little thick for less then 48 hours of running.

just worried the unit is not working on all parts correctly
Gene  
#1898 Posted : Thursday, May 16, 2013 1:11:23 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Brian,

The reason why I asked you how long either of the doors was open is that your refrigerator has the liner protection mode among many others. It will activate if either of the doors have been open for 3 minutes. This mode will start the evaporator fan motor and close the damper, with or without the compressor running.

Gene.
Brian R  
#1899 Posted : Friday, May 17, 2013 2:17:29 AM(UTC)
Brian R

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Gene
Fridge was only open for about 24 hours
Freezer temps still holding at 6/8 degrees
At one time it was like 0. I have found fan not running as much but still running a lot. Plan to check coils this Sunday just to see what if any frost build up looks like
Keeping fingers crossed all is well
Troy36house  
#1900 Posted : Sunday, May 19, 2013 7:30:38 PM(UTC)
Troy36house

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Gene,

I have a Kenmore model 36350232000. Is the defrost timer in the refrigerator or freezer section of the appliance? I want to try the 3 steps you outline to determine what is causing the refrigerator to be warmer than it should be. I was able to see that there was some frost on the coils behind the panel in the freezer but couldn't remove the panel completely to get a great view because the ice maker was in the way. Does the ice maker just slide out once the 2 bolts holding it to the inside of the freezer are removed? I don't want to damage it in any way.

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.
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