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belchrr  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, May 8, 2013 8:34:08 AM(UTC)
belchrr

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I have a whirlpool side x side and the freezer is not getting cold enough. I don't have ice on back wall but i can see about an 1/8 inch of frost on the coils via the slats in the back wall. I would like to force it to auto defrost but have been unable to find out how. Can anyone tell me how to force auto defrost on this model of Refrig/Freezer?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 8, 2013 11:18:08 AM(UTC)
denman

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see the attachment for the tech sheet
File Attachment(s):
GD5RVA.pdf (522kb) downloaded 23 time(s).
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belchrr  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 8, 2013 11:40:23 AM(UTC)
belchrr

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Thank you for the info that helps but my refrig/freezer does not have a manual thermostat only the digital one above ice/water dispenser. How to i turn off the thermostat via that?
belchrr  
#4 Posted : Thursday, May 9, 2013 6:55:40 AM(UTC)
belchrr

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Denman i think i figured out how to turn off the thermostat. i conducted both tests on the pdf you sent me but the refrig/freezer did not go into defrost mode or the heater did not come on. The heater did not warm up or i did not see water dripping from coil. Suggestions? I wont be able to check heater until this weekend so when i do this what ohms should i see if it is good? should i also check the bi-metl? the fan is running so i dont see that as a problem.
denman  
#5 Posted : Friday, May 10, 2013 12:21:57 AM(UTC)
denman

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First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.

Manually force a defrost cycle. When the fans and compressor turn off you are in defrost.

Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the control board needs replacing.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 26 in Unit Parts Section) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 5 in Air Flow Parts Section ) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the control board is toast.
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belchrr  
#6 Posted : Saturday, May 11, 2013 7:13:20 AM(UTC)
belchrr

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I took the cover off of the coil in the freezer and noticed that they were frosted only about 2 inch from the bottom the rest was clean. I checked the heater and it read 23 ohms. I checked the bimetl and it was 0 ohms. I suspect that either the compressor is bad or low on freon, then to add to it the ice maker stopped making ice. Is there anything else I can test?
denman  
#7 Posted : Sunday, May 12, 2013 5:55:03 AM(UTC)
denman

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Yes it does sound like it is a sealed system problem.

This will be an expensive repair as you will need a pro.
Your problem sounds like low freon so there is no use putting more freon info it unless the leak is found and repaired first.

Often it makes more sense to put the dollars towards a new unit.

Since this may involve scrapping a unit I would manually defrost the coils.
Then when they are totally clean, plug the unit in and let it run some so that you can check that only the lower portion of the coils is frosting up.
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