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The dryer now shuts off when gets too hot and won't restart until it cools down. Prior to this new problem....It had been taking a long time to dry clothes in all settings besides the more dry/less dry setting. Even in this setting the dryer didn't seem to progress and the clothes would be very hot when checked on. It would just run and run.
Wondering if this is something that can be fixed easily.
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Your symptons give every indication that the exhaust air flow is impeded somehow. In the moisture driven cycle (more dry/less dry) the moisture cannot escape and that is why the cycle is taking a long time and heating up your clothes. In the timed cycle it takes a long time for the same reason.
You need to open up your machine and clean out all the lint and any other debris, particularly from the blower fan and system. Compressed air is best, if you have it. You need to make absolutely certain that there is nothing impeding the air flow (this is a safety problem too!).
After you have done this, run it again and see if you still have the problems.
Post and let us know how it turns out.
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Thank you for the help. The problem is half solved now. I cleaned out the inside of the dryer which was packed with lint. The exhaust hose was new as is the outside vent. My clothes dried quickly. The problem came when I put a new load in and the dryer made a funny noise like it was trying to turn on, but it hummed and then stopped as it had been doing. I waited a half hour and it turned on.
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make sure the blower motor turns freely. It sounds like the Hi-limit switch is shutting it down for over temperature which would mean lack of air flow. If that isnt the problem I dont know what to look at as I just started a thread about what else could cause a similiar problem I am having since all hose's are clean and the blower motor on mine turns freely but the fuse keeps blowing (fuse blows when the Hi limit switch fails to shut down the machine).
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for AMANA ALE643RAW | AppliancePartsPros.comSounds like your motor has just about had it. The motor has a start and a main winding. Once it starts rotating the start winding is switched off by one of it's centrifugal switches. If it does not start (the motor will buzz), then the start winding continues to get power and this overheats the motor. It's internal thermal protect opens and you have to wait for the motor to cool down again before trying to restart. Try turning the drum by hand, it should turn fairly easily. If it does than the motor probably has to be replaced. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Thanks for the help. Just to confirm...I only need a new motor? My husband thinks I'm crazy taking things apart. Is this something easily replaced? Wondering if I should just call a professional.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Just to confirm...I only need a new motor?
Yes to fix this problem, it comes with new switches.
I would not order anything till you get it opened up. You can then check other things like the belt, rear rollers (bearing slop), drum seals, idler wheel, front glides etc. You may as well give it a decent going over and this will give you an idea of the total cost. If it gets up to 30% or so of the cost of a new unit, it may make more sense to scrap it unless it is in very good shape.
My husband thinks I'm crazy taking things apart. Is this something easily replaced? Wondering if I should just call a professional
Cannot really give an opinion on this. Depends on your mechanical ability.
It is not difficult if you take your time and make yourself drawings etc. so you know where things go when you reassemble it. Also mark the location of any wires you take off. A digital camera can help here.
The hardest part is getting the motor's clips off and then back on.
In any case if you get stuck then you could call a pro.
Another important factor is how determined you are!!! |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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