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Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11086880800 - AppliancePartsPros.com

I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit.

I am guessing a bit but there should only be two connectors that are the heating coil. the wires to it have to be disconnected to check it properly.

[COLOR="Blue"]So i figure the element is grounding out and getting at least partially hot using the the metal shroud or something as its neutral. But mustn't something else also be wrong for the element to heat w/o the motor turning... the switch that senses that the motor IS running?[/COLOR]
No.
Normally the heater runs off of 240 volts.
One side goes to the centrifugal switch on the motor to L2 side of the line.
The other side goes through the thermostat's and a set of timer contacts to L1 side of the line. So if that sides parts are closed voltage will go through them and part of the element and then to ground/frame/Neutral. Then part of the element heats up but it is 120 volts.

[COLOR="Blue"] Does it seem likely that both would fail together?[/COLOR]
I do not think both have failed.

I cannot find a wiring diagram so cannot say which two wires it is.
Here is the part. Click on the picture to get more views of it, you can then click on them to expand then so you can see what the connector end looks like.

If you start disconnecting things be sure to either mark the wires or make yourself a diagram so they go back on the correct connectors.

Part number: AP3109438

[COLOR="Blue"] Isn't there a sensor/switch that prevents power from reaching the element, if the blower is not operating?[/COLOR]
Yes, this is the centrifugal switch on the motor.
It closes when the motor/blower is running.

The circuit is usually:
L1---timer contacts---thermostat, hi-limit and thermal cut off contacts---heater coil---centrifugal switch ---L2
L1 and L2 are two 120 volt supplies with a common Neutral/ground.
They are 180 degrees out of phase, so when one is positive 120 the other is negative 120. The difference between the two then gives you 240 volts to run the heating coil.
You will notice that Neutral/ground is not part of the heater circuit.

What can happen is that the heating coil can break or sag is such a way that it touches the case/Neutral/ground.
Now the circuit is:
L1---timer contacts---thermostat, high limit and thermal cutoff contacts---part of the heater coil---Neutral/ground.
So now the heater gets 120 volts across part of it and that part heats up.

Since the main control thermostat is on the blower housing, it's contacts always stay because the motor is off so there is no heat getting to the thermostat.
The heater then runs off of the hi-limit thermostat but it' is just a safety device so it's contacts are not made to continually switch the power on/off and eventually they fail/weld together and then the thermal cutoff blows.

I hope I explained the above OK.

It is a good idea to replace the hi-limit thermostat is the thermal cutogg blows.
On many units they come as one part number.

I already ordered the parts. The motor thermal fuse and the element. I don't think the "high limit" thermostat IS included. Is it likely that it has fused? It tests closed, but that doesn't tell me if it functions.

It's function is to prevent overheating of the dryer?