Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC) Posts: 46
|
My wife always uses the timed-drying setting on our Kenmore unit. This unit has something called a Wrinkle Guard II. Recently, my wife has informed me that when the dryer stops after its 90-minute timed-dry cycle, the clothes and inside of the dryer is burning hot when the cycle completes. We always use the "Ultra Delicate/Extra Low" temperature setting, which is one step warmer than the "Air Fluff/No Heat" setting.
Up until now, my wife says the clothes and inside of the dryer are normally only slightly warm at the end of the cycle, whereas now, they are extremely hot. It almost feels that it's drying on the hottest drying setting and not lowering in temperature toward the end of the cycle. It also seems to be now that even on the "Air Fluff/No Heat" cycle, heat is being produced.
Any advise or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC) Posts: 46
|
Can any one of the experts please help me with this or offer up some suggestions? I'd really appreciate it.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC) Posts: 46
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11062952100 - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. You may have a grounded element. Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating element. Measure across the element should be 8 to 12 ohms. Then measure from each element connector to the machines frame, both should be infinite ohms. If not then the element is grounded and cannot be controlled. Be sure to use bare metal when testing or Neutral if it is a 3 wire hook up. If the element is OK, try swapping the motor and heater relays. I believe they are the same but double check this. If the unit starts up when you reconnect power to i, then the relay contacts are welded together and it needs replacing. If the relays are OK then it could be a thermistor or a control board problem. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC) Posts: 46
|
Thanks. I really appreciate the reply, however I'm not that good with troubleshooting, checking ohms, voltages, etc. If I wanted to just go down the path of replacing parts, which parts would you recommend I replace and in what order?
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
OK lets try to narrow it down without using a meter.
If it is a heater problem often you can see the problem, either the coil has sagged and is toughing the case or has broken and one side of the break is touching the case.
Pull the heater relay and see if it still heats up. If yes, then I would replace the heater. Note: This just checks one scenario of a grounded element so it does not totally eliminate the heater as the cause. Swapping the relays also does not require the use of a meter. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC) Posts: 46
|
Originally Posted by: denman OK lets try to narrow it down without using a meter.
If it is a heater problem often you can see the problem, either the coil has sagged and is toughing the case or has broken and one side of the break is touching the case.
Pull the heater relay and see if it still heats up. If yes, then I would replace the heater. Note: This just checks one scenario of a grounded element so it does not totally eliminate the heater as the cause. Swapping the relays also does not require the use of a meter. OK, thanks. I'm trying to find all the parts you mention in the parts store link you provided. I can't seem to locate all of them.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Heating coil AP2947033
Relay AP3037419
Thermistor AP3919451
Control Board AP4319168 |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC) Posts: 46
|
Originally Posted by: denman Heating coil AP2947033
Relay AP3037419
Thermistor AP3919451
Control Board AP4319168 Thanks. What about the Even Heat Control Assembly. On page-3 of the doc, it talks about Problem: Dryer Heats During Air Fluff/No Heat Cycle. My dryer is doing that as well. It talks about replacing the Heater Relay and the Even Heat Control Assembly.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
The Even Heat Control is the same as the control board.
What they are saying is if the heater element is not grounded and the heat relay contacts are not welded together then this control board is activating the heat relay (48 volts across it's coil P3-1 to P3-2) when it should not. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close