Hopefully, someone can help me narrow the potential solutions down. Every site I check gives a different answer. I read some of these suggestions - logically, they just don't seem to make sense to me?

I'm very handy and mechanical - so anything that is suggested is not beyond my ability.

Maytag - Model Mav -208-DAWW


The washer does everything but ...the spin doesn't do the final FAST spin to get all of the water out of the clothes. There is no visible water left in the inner tub, the external drain hose is not glogged. The washer is level.

The fact that it spins but that it doesn't do the very fast speed spin...which physics tells me pulls the last of the water out ... says what?

is there a 'timer' setting that kicks it into the speed spin specifically?


Some online say... If the pump hose or pump is clogged - with even so much as a pin or paperclip, etc. , but I would think it wouldn't drain at all if there were an obstruction?

I didn't take the inner hose off but I did unhook one end of it and a lot of water came out - is this typical to be expected of residual in the hose or pump?





Lastly - how in the world would you get between the inner and outer drum to see if something is caught there? And...if that were the case, again, wouldn't the drum not spin at all?

Thanks for any suggestion that could help narrow this whole situation down ...while I may be handy & mechanical - my disadvantage is that I am working in an area of very little space, short of moving the washer completely out of the narrow laundry room and I am just not that into it :-)

Liz

Eric;

Thanks for such a quick reply. I'm anxious to get right on this but such a late hour is stopping me.

BTW...I'm not quite sure exactly how easy it will be to "Reach up under the basket between the basket and outer tub and feel for any clothing that may be caught in there."

There is a way to do this short of removing the agitator, the rim, the inner tub ( i.e. basket) etc...that you say, 'reach up under'? If so, please tell me how - anything is better than taking all of that apart...given the way everyone says it is so easy to check, there must be. :-)

Thanks again,
Liz

Thanks Eric...I didn't get a message that you had replied again...just came by to update you. I have the top open and front off and splash rim off of tubs:
Nothing in-between tubs - shone a light up from under.
Motor pivots, at least manually - as obviously I have unplugged the machine :-)
The pump pulley belt rotates easily - however I didn't take it off yet. I'm afraid I won't get it back on.
All that is left is the brake adjsutment that you described...getting to that and will get back - once I figure out which is the brake :-) I'll figure it out.

Lisa

Did you check the reference marks on the bottom of the pulley as I suggested? The brake is just above the drive pulley (center pulley). This pulley drives the transmission input shaft via a two part cam setup. The lower cam is on the very bottom of the input shaft below the pulley. The upper cam is an integral part of the drive pulley hub. When the pulley goes in the CCW (viewed from below) direction the two cams begin to rotate together but the lower cam which is splined to the input shaft will only rotate until the "anti-backup" pinion gear in the transmission stops it. Now the upper cam "rides" up the lower cam so the pulley moves upwards. There is a thrust bearing on the upper side of the pulley that pushes up on the brake rotor which is splined to the lower stem of the transmission housing. With the brake released, now the lower cam can drive the input shaft again which will now turn the whole transmission housing. The upper stem of the transmission housing is attached to the basket. When spin stops the spring in the brake pushes the brake rotor back down, the lining on the spinning rotor contacts the brake stator and stops it. The rotor being splined to the lower transmission stem, stops it and the basket. Hope I didn't lose you there. Anyway, rotate the pulley CCW and the brake should release and the basket should rotate, in theory. This doesn't always work so well when doing it by hand as the brake spring is exerting 200 pounds of force on the brake rotor. In actual operation, the motor provides much more force to get the spin going. So, at this point, everything else seems to check out ok, so that leaves the brake thrust bearing, cams or the tub bearing as possible problem areas. The thrust bearing and cams are relatively easy to replace and is a common failure point so I would suggest replacing it. It comes as a kit with new pulley, lower cam and bearing parts.

Eric

Yes, that's the one. You must remove the cover/cap on the bottom of the pulley to see the reference marks.

Eric