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I replaced the oven ignitor a few weeks ago; but neglected to push the ignitor lead connectors all the way through the back of the oven. The oven was working fine after ignitor replacement; until we ran a self-cleaning cycle. The high temps of the cleaning cycle melted the ignitor connector leads, after which the oven stopped working again.
Bought a new ignitor and installed it; but it's not glowing at all in bake mode. Checked voltage between between lead coming down from the control panel in bake mode & chassis ground, and it reads 120V - but the voltage between the two ignitor leads (the one coming down from the control panel & the one coming up from the gas valve) is only a few volts. I assume this voltage should be 120V as well?
Could the gas valve have shorted out; or what could have happened when the original ignitor leads melted and shorted out?
Thanks,
- Gary
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Hi, Gary. If you have 120VAC from Yellow to the ground, check the safety gas valve for continuity (Y to WH) with one wire off. The short created by high temperature "killed" the gas valve's coil. Replace the valve kit: Part number: 12002604
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Originally Posted by: glcampbell  I replaced the oven ignitor a few weeks ago; but neglected to push the ignitor lead connectors all the way through the back of the oven. The oven was working fine after ignitor replacement; until we ran a self-cleaning cycle. The high temps of the cleaning cycle melted the ignitor connector leads, after which the oven stopped working again.
Bought a new ignitor and installed it; but it's not glowing at all in bake mode. Checked voltage between between lead coming down from the control panel in bake mode & chassis ground, and it reads 120V - but the voltage between the two ignitor leads (the one coming down from the control panel & the one coming up from the gas valve) is only a few volts. I assume this voltage should be 120V as well?
Could the gas valve have shorted out; or what could have happened when the original ignitor leads melted and shorted out?
Thanks,
- Gary Gary, A couple of things could have happened. The easier test to the igniter is with a clamp on ammeter, the ignitor should draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps, when it's glowing. If you have a multi meter, you can check the voltage across the two wires on the safety valve, you should read 3.2 to 3.6 VAC with the wires attached to the valve and the glow bar glowing. You can also disconnect the wires from the valve terminals, and check for a "closed" circuit between the two terminals, then check each terminal to the valve case for an "open" circuit. If all checks are proper, then you have a damaged ignitor or wire.
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