Hello,
I recently replaced the door seal (kit with adhesive) and am curious if I am doing this right. Might be a silly question and I can't make heads and tails out of the diagram or I want to double check that I did it right. The manual states that I need to face the white line towards the outside of the tub except there is no white line. There are two parts to this seal, one half of it has ridges and a catch while the other has an inner tube shaped like a leaf. I put the adhesive in the track and put in the ridges and catch (with the catch facing the outside rather than the inside of the but). Thus the tube is the only part that is now sitting against the track. Sorry, the best way I can describe it but I can post a pic or something if that helps. If you have one, that would definitely help.

My second problem is that the water does not heat at all about 9 out of 10 times. One out of ten times, the heater comes on like it should. So, I have an intermittent problem there somewhere. The bottom of the dishwasher doesn't show any loose connections nor burnouts.

Thoughts? Appreciate the help as I am ready to throw in the towel on this one and call someone. I have already fixed the chopper and leaks at the bottom of the tub (which developed after I replaced the chopper so the heat problem existed before that).

Please help. Thx.

Still hoping for some help from this forum and getting educated in the process. Checked continuity on the motor to ensure my meter and method is correct, get around 15-20 ohms...repeated the method across the two connections for the heating element at the bottom of the dishwashwer and meter doesn't register, same with the two contact points for the thermistor. Could both be bad? The two are isolated, i.e. I removed the connectors. I got the same result for inlet valve and I know that works. What am I doing wrong? Thx.

Denman, thanks a bunch. Here's the latest that I have. I will try to be more descriptive, hoping it helps someone. I have learned more than I ever wanted to know but a lot to be done as I have four problems;

1. Door leaks (at the top and then it rolls down to either side). This is after replacing the seal, a lot better (from a bucket to a few spoonfuls). If you or someone has pics on how this seal goes in, that would be great. I can lick the whole tubing, it's so clean and water pressure is good, everything spins like it's supposed to.

2. Leak at the bottom. I have the whole thing out now including the motor assembly so I plan to redo this tomorrow. The seal is good and I have cleaned it and the area. Will use some lubricant to sit it down. I tried that before but it leaked after two days, and yes, the three tabs were in place.

3. The chopper is broken, need to replace that. I ended up breaking the plastic while trying to take the motor out. I needed to replace it anyway as it was suspect.

4. No heat. Here are the steps I have taken:

a). My Thermal fuse which is near the control panel (white) in the door checks ok (zero ohms).

b). My switch is fine and clicks in place (engages when you close the door).

c). My Thermistor is fine...has very high resistance when cold and lower resistance when hot (I dipped it in hot water), working as expected.

d). Capacitor on the motor is fine...I left the leads in place because the motor was disconnected showing infinite resistance...so that has checked out ok as well. Checked it while I was at it.

e). Motor is good, resistance there as well and same for the transformer looking thing.

f). Inlet valve, check.

I think that leaves me with one where my continuity check fails, the heating element. It apparently comes with a control board which I will replace in the process although what I have seems to work just fine (it doesn't do the 7 blink issue everyone has been talking about).

The dishwasher cycle is about 120 minutes versus 80 so definitely the heater is not working. Should it not stop and blink seven times like others versus completing the cycle (not that I am complaining)?

Thanks again.

Hi Denman, here's my update. Replaced the element, so far so good, seems hotter but I haven't taken true measurements but the temperature is not dropping so that's good. No leaks at the bottom, don't need any lubrication, just a lot of cleaning as you mentioned...also one of my tabs had come loose so it was offset about a 1/4 of an inch, causing all sorts of havoc. Also, to everyone, be careful or you will get cuts on your fingers, very sharp...I have used a lot of bandaids on this one.

Replacement of the control module was simple, no issues there although I have noticed a strange thing and something could have been happening all the time. I don't think the float is being used at all...as it lifts, it's supposed to open a switch. When I start the cycle, the dishwasher kicks in, fills 2.5 liters less than what I think it ought to be (I manually added about 2.5 liters and float engages as it should while tripping the switch below, water still below the element as it ought to be). The float, the valve, the tubing all the way to the connections to the tub are squeaky clean as I took them out and cleaned them out fully. The float is not getting a chance to work (checked continuity of the switches and everything). The valve doesn't show continuity but it's obviously working because some water is getting in. Also, I know I need 1.9 Liters in 27 seconds according to the tech sheet and I am getting about double that from the water pipe that connects to the valve so pressure is not the problem. Is the fill timed and does the system not wait for the float to do its work? Should the valve show continuity?

Also, if you have any thoughts on door seal, that would be great.

Thanks a bunch, again.

Denman, thanks for all your help and guidance, you are a good man.

Just want to double check. Are you saying that in normal operation, a float will probabably never get engaged? The only reason I ask is because in the wash cycle I put in enough water manually (6.5 liters) and the float began to lift, shut the door and the dishwater still took some water in (probably the other .3 liters that it requires for a wash) till the float engaged and started the wash cycle.

Also, maybe the valve is meant to open under power and close when there is no power and considering it's disconnected, probably showing no continuity...maybe, who knows.

On the plus side, the dishes came out sparkling so there's some, wait, a lot of progress made. So, thanks again.