Hello,

I searched the forum and didn't find an answer to my question, so here it goes...

Can I test/replace the heating element on an old GE Triton XL (GSD6100K03BB) without pulling the dishwasher? (which would require cutting the copper water line.)

Can I access the heater's terminals by removing the lower spray arm and filter bed?

I have included a photo for your reference.

Thanks!!!

Paul

thank you, Simon.

Before I go thru that effort, I'd like to eliminate some simpler components first: is there a heating element relay or fuse near the front of the unit that I can test? (I have electronics experience.) Or, perhaps a self-diagnostic mode which would flag a bad relay/fuse?

The DW operates normally, except that the element does not feel hot during "Extra Hot" wash cycle nor during "Heated Dry" cycle. The element seems to function partially - during "Extra Hot" wash, the water feels about 100 degrees and I don't think that is residual heat from the hot water pipe, as the water heater is only set to about 120 and my limited experience with other dishwashers in "energy save" mode (heating element off) is that the initial water heat dissipates pretty quickly after a few minutes of washing.


Thank you.

Paul

thank you, Simon.

I pulled J2 this morning and the heating element = 15.5 ohms.

Also, I stumbled on a Triton tech service guide while searching the web for a user manual! I ran the "service mode" and manually triggered the heater. I could hear the relay (K3) click on & off, but the element remained cold, which confuses me: if the relay is funneling line voltage to the element, then it shouldn't be colder but hotter than spec. If nominal resistance is ~19 ohms and that is spec'd for 700W, then my element should be cranking out 900W if line voltage is reaching it - ??!!

I wasn't seeing line voltage at J2-3, so I removed the circuit board again - but this time I unscrewed it from its plastic backing, and when I flipped it over - voila! As you can see from the attached photo below, the power leg of the relay was a powder keg! It burned a hole in the PCB and the metal contact disintegrated.

Rather than pay $100 for a new control board, I purchased an equivalent relay for $2.75, installed it (bypassing the bad trace with an insulated wire), recoated the board, and now the heater element grows toasty hot!! :D

I hope that my frustration can be of benefit to other techs & homeowners who run into this problem. If you are able to zoom-in the attached photos, you'll see:
[LIST=1]

the relay fault is not visible from the top of the circuit board

the relay internals are pristine and fully functional - device still "clicks"

the circuit board contains numerous cold solder joints (which I have since fixed), so apparently its "Quality Control - passed" stickers are meaningless. It is likely that the relay failure arose from a cold solder joint that presented too large a resistance for the high (6+ amp) heater element load.[/LIST]

Paul_illinois attached the following image(s):

Evidently the forum shrinks photos, so I have re-posted some zoomed-in versions of those pics for anyone who's interested.

Simon - I am unemployed, so your assistance helped save me the expense of buying a new control board. I'd like to send you $10 for your effort - all I can afford right now. If you have PayPal, I can send it that way.