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Whirlpool dryer will not shut off after new timer replacement
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Model: LEN3624BWO Brand: Whirlpool Age: 1 - 5 years
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grayfeathers  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, October 23, 2012 4:23:08 PM(UTC)
grayfeathers

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Wife was complaining again about dryer not shutting off. I've replaced the timer about a year ago so I ordered another timer. Timer works until nearly time to shut off then timer stops working. What else would cause the timer to stop working?

Thanks in advance.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, October 24, 2012 2:40:06 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool LEN3624BW0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Does the timer advance in auto modes or only in timed dry?
File Attachment(s):
LEN3624.pdf (63kb) downloaded 23 time(s).
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grayfeathers  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, October 24, 2012 4:35:39 PM(UTC)
grayfeathers

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Thanks for the wiring diagram and for your fast response.

The timer works when in timed mode but not in high heat or low heat mode. But, when in timed mode the timer will stop working just after the first click is heard on the timer. If that makes sense. Also, when I say the timer is working, I'm going by the "site glass" in the timer itself. The dryer will not shut off unless I manually turn the knob to the off position.
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denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, October 25, 2012 3:19:41 AM(UTC)
denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]The timer works when in timed mode but not in high heat or low heat mode.[/COLOR]
Is high and low heat still in timed dry?
Perhaps i should explain how it works, see the wiring diagram.
In timed dry the timer motor gets power through TIMER SWITCH 0, TM/WB contacts. Basically directly from the line (L1 to Neutral)
In auto modes the timer motor gets power through TIMER SWITCH 0, TM/OR contacts. This is through the heating coil when the coil is shut off by a thermostat. The RESISTOR then drops this 240 volt power down to 120 volts for the timer motor.

You will also see in the timer/contact chart if you look at END OF CYCLE that in both timer and auto that the TIMER SWITCH 0 TM/OR contacts drive the timer motor the last little way to off.

So if the timer stalls just before shut off and at the end of it's cycle then you may have a problem with the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating coil.
Measure the heating coil, should be around 10 ohms.
Then measure from each heater contact to the machine's frame, both should be infinite ohms. Be sure to find bare metal on the frame.
If not infinite then the coil has shorted to the frame/case and should be replaced.
[COLOR="Blue"]
But, when in timed mode the timer will stop working just after the first click is heard on the timer.[/COLOR]
Not sure what this means.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Also, when I say the timer is working, I'm going by the "site glass" in the timer itself. [/COLOR]
This is just telling you that the timer motor is working not that the timer is working. There could be a problem in the timer where the motor works but the timer does not advance. If the motor is running then the timer should advance.
When I refer to the timer working I am talking about the knob advancing.
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grayfeathers  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, October 31, 2012 5:48:37 PM(UTC)
grayfeathers

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Found heater open which really doesn't make since because the dryer was drying clothes. Anyway, ordered and replaced heater. No change. Timer is still not advancing in the temperature mode but will advance in the timed mode but still will not shut off.

I pulled the dryer back out of it's closet and traced every wire that I could find. I found a part open that has orange wires on each side of it. I took the wiring diagram that you gave me, which I am very thankful for btw, and I assume that this part is a resistor. Part # 15 on the schematic. But, part # 15 on the parts breakdown is not the part that is on my dryer. Can you possible confirm that I'm heading in the right direction. Can I jump this part out?

Thanks.
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denman  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, October 31, 2012 11:43:39 PM(UTC)
denman

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Yes I think you are going in the right direction.

I am assuming you used a meter scale that was higher than 5,000 ohms to check it. Otherwise it will read as open (20K on most digital meters).

No you cannot short it out!!!
It is there to drop the 240 heater voltage down to 120 volts for the timer motor.

It looks like the part includes 2 female connectors so you can replace the male connectors with these if required.
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grayfeathers  
#7 Posted : Thursday, November 1, 2012 8:31:30 PM(UTC)
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Got the part ordered tonight. FYI, I'm using a Fluke Amprobe multi meter. Top of the line.
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