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I replaced the motor and impeller on the shu4302 but it obviously has other issues as well. The machine was on the wash cycle from when the motor burned and since i had vacuumed the water out, I added water manually for it to run. Not sure if that is normal under the situation. Anyway here are some of my continuing issues:
1. the wash cycle run for 2 hours and the rinse cycle was going for 45 min
before i shut the machine off
2. When I opened the door I noticed that probably it had not drained the
wash water cause it seemed ready to overflow. This had happened before
lately
3. The water was barely warm
Not sure if those are individual issues or they might be related to the
control panel that has been replaced 3 times in about 10 years. which is a bit
excessive. If you can give me some feed back on how to trouble shoot
these issues, I would appreciate it.
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Open the control panel and remove the control module. Visually inspect it for any burned parts and/or connections. If there are nothing wrong, perform all measurements as described on page A-1 (4) in the manual posted in one of our previous threads http://forum.appliancepartspros...troubleshoot-manual.htmlGene.
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Rank: Member
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will assume that i will need a digital meter to properly do that.
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Rank: Member
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Have to admit that i am very novice on taking measurements, so lets see if i would do this right: dishwasher has to be in test mode? or if not, should the power be off?
Looking at the testing diagrm on the shu 4302, i will make the assumption that for example when measuring the drain motor one probe will be on BU-16-9 and the other one on WHRD-e0-1. How about the items such as Hi-limit and flow switch that it does not indicate two connecting wires?
Also, I will assume that when testing an open circuit like 'water level switch', there will be no power between the two terminal. Thanks for your time.
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The safety is first so the power has to be off. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html You don't have to perform all measurements described there. You have to check the NTC, the heater and the drain motor. WHRD-e0-1 is the neutral line and should be used for testing all parts Quote:...that it does not indicate two connecting wires... Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for your reply. i have not done the tests yet but I did run the machine in the test mode and it did drain, fill up and start running. I stoped the test mode and just run the regular wash. It was doing ok till it got to the rinse mode which it did not seem to end and the water was not hot. Will run the tests and let you know how it went. Thanks again.
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Rank: Member
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I checked the drain motor and the NTC. They both seem fine. I put the probes on the two brown wires as per diagram to chk the NTC.
Is there a way to check the heater without pulling off the right side cover
and actually checking it.
I will make the assumption that if the heater is bad and the water is not reaching the desired temp will make the rinse go on forever.... am I right on that? Please let me know what i can do more to diagnose this problem.
Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You can check the heater, hi-limit and flow switch the same way.
Yes, you are right. If there is anything wrong with the water heating then the dishwasher will run forever.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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How exactly do I do that cause it's not very clear on the diagram and what kind of results am I looking for on the multimeter?
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Rank: Member
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Also, does this model have a module jumper?if so, I don't seem to have one. This control module was purchased towards the beginning of this year. Not sure if the old one had one and not aware I had to use the old one as mentioned in the manual.this was the 3Rd time i replaced the control module.didn't have to do that previously.
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