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dachickenfarmer  
#1 Posted : Saturday, September 22, 2012 12:49:39 PM(UTC)
dachickenfarmer

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Joined: 5/11/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

My Viking VGIC365 6BSS Oven only lights on one side (Left). Have 2 new ignitors, and Left Side (facing down when looking from front) of dual safety valve will light either ignitor. Other side of valve doesn't glow.
Voltage into valve is 3.0 into "good" side, 110 into "bad" side.
Is this the selector switch or the valve or something else? If selector switch, what's the part number?
And where is the selector switch??
Thanks!
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VikTech  
#2 Posted : Thursday, November 1, 2012 6:16:15 PM(UTC)
VikTech

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The ignitors are wired in series...power coming straight down from your thermostat. Sounds as if the ignitors are wired incorrectly. Each ignitor should be taking incoming voltage from the wires coming in from the right side of the range. The other wire on the ignitor should be going to the valve. 3A or more are needed to open the valve, so it sounds as if the current is not reaching your valve on the ignitor that's not working. Either failed ignitor or mis-wired.
dachickenfarmer  
#3 Posted : Friday, November 2, 2012 3:54:55 AM(UTC)
dachickenfarmer

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Thanks for the reply - I forgot to post - I changed the valve & it worked - 1 of the 2 electrical leads to the valve had an open circuit.
icarus  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 6, 2012 5:04:00 PM(UTC)
icarus

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I have the identical problem. I replaced both igniters last week, and the oven worked fine. When I replaced the igniters I noticed the burners were burned out, so today I replaced these as well. The oven test fired fine, but in the middle of doing dinner, the left igniter is not lighting and the left burner is also then not lighting!

Any great ideas? (I am going to put one of he old igniter back in to see if that work,, going to be upset if the new igniter has failed! ) the old ones were just slow.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Icarus

PS. Putting the old ignitor back in changes nothing. (BTW, the igniters are NOT wired in series, but in PARALELL. ). I get 120 vac through the igniter. I'm hard pressed to believe the gas valve (or more correctly, one side of the valve ) has failed.

I
VikTech  
#5 Posted : Monday, December 10, 2012 7:40:57 PM(UTC)
VikTech

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Yes you are correct...they are wired in parallel, my mistake not sure what i was drinking that night.

you have 120v going through the igniter but not glowing? Sounds like a bad igniter. The blown through holes on the burners will kill igniters very quickly. The blown out holes are a result of not changing the igniters in time. as they get weak they still glow, and allow the valve to open but not fully. this lack in heat from the igniter causes mini-explosions at the burner ports eventually blowing them out. Changing the igniter and not the burner tube at the same time leads to a larger flame where the ports blew out. Typically reduces the life of the igniter greatly, but a week or two is extreme. I'd imagine you just got a dud of an igniter. New igniters should draw about 3.4 amps...some generic parts draw closer to 3 out of the box. Anything less than 2.9 will give you issues with heating.
icarus  
#6 Posted : Monday, December 10, 2012 9:31:36 PM(UTC)
icarus

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It is worse than that! After I changed the igniters and the burner tubes, I needed to adjust the flame ( too much yellow) As it was almost supper time, I decided to wait for the next day, but we used the oven. What happened (as far as I can tell!) is that the flame carboned up the igniter, causing it to short to the burner tube, which in turn, blew out one half of the gas valve!

A very expensive mistake in not truing the flame properly right away. Known good igniters don't work. I am assuming that the circuit is closed by part of the gas valve.

Unless anybody has any other idea, I am forced, at this point to replace the gas valve. What pisses me off is for the sake of a ten cent fuse that would have protected the gas valve one wouldn't have to go through this.

Thanks for the help.

Icarus
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