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I had the typical GE dual -evap problem of high temps, wacky temps, and melting ice, and then refreezing, etc. I replaced the mother board but still have same problem. I replaced with WR49X10152. I also changed the inverter harness as the instructions said, even though I don't think my model required it. The connector was a bit loose, so I did it for that reason. I did not disconnect pin 10 on J3. I found the included instructions confusing. Nowhere could I identify the "current source board", so I followed the instructions based on the assumption that my model did not have one. I did the GE diagnostics and everything checks OK, even the thermistors, which I began to suspect. I confirmed that the fridge temps shown on the GE display match a digital thermometer closely. I don't have defrost problems that I can see, no "ice balls", and I can hear all 3 fans (I have custom-cool feature also) when the diag. mode runs them. I do have heavy condensation in fridge most of the time, especially on middle wall, near thermistor enclosure. Sometimes it holds the set temp, briefly, but most of the time it doesn't. If I use the Turbo-cool function, the fridge will begin to cool down while that mode is operating. Icemaker works, but ice melts intermittently in storage bin and forms icicles. What am I missing?
Condenser coils cleaned also. No change.
Please help if you can.
Kevin
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Hi Kevin,
Remove the rear panel inside the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with frost. Normally it should be about 100% covered with a thin frost.
Post the results.
Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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A intermittent evaporator thermistor will also cause these problems. Check your schematic, the usual connections at the motherboard are J1 pins 4 and 5.
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I will try both suggestions as soon as I can, in the next couple of days. I will post results.
Thank you!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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There are other possabilitys. The defrost thermostat might be shorted, evaporator fan motor running during defrost, compressor or condenser motor shutting down, etc. Helps to tell us what is/ is not running when it fails. A table of thermistor values vs temperature I have put in the sticky above ...(GS*&PS*) refigerators....
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Rank: Member
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I replaced the evap thermistor and did the defrost thermostat while I was in there today. No change. The evap had a light coating of frost throughout its fins. I cant tell what is not working when it fails, because it rarely maintains set temps. It does its own thing. Set temp right now 0 and 37, but showing 5 and 46. Earlier it was 0 and 47, and then 0 and 43, then 12 and 44, its all over the place. I am really getting tired of this machine. What should I test next?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You might have a loose connection at some connector, try unplugging connectors and spraying with a non-residue contact cleaner available at Wall Mart.
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Rank: Member
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Is it possible I have insulation breakdown near the middle thermistor in the fridge? There is a large amount of condensation in that area on the liner wall, all around the thermistor housing. I read a post about a tech's diagnosis that this happens to some of these units and it is not repairable. (thermistor consistently gets colder air that it should normally, so fridge is always too warm)That would not explain the incorrect freezer temps though, unless the system was interconnected. It worked fine for the first 5 years, so maybe not. I will check the connectors as suggested, but I am losing my enthusiasm for this effort. Maybe I will turn it into a big wine fridge--It can do 48-55 degrees no problem!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Did you check the compressor in the back, maybe it's overheating.
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FIXED! I replaced four of the five thermistors ( I skipped the custom cool one because I was out of time) and the fridge has worked properly now for 4 days. I checked the old sensors when they had returned to room temp and one of them had different resistance by almost 100% compared to the others.
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