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I have a Kitchenaid Superba with this problem. Model KSRS251KSS01. Nothing on a search of the site. Things I've done so far... Removed back panel to check coil in freezer. Mild/Light snow and a few drips. Not frozen or blocked. Fan spinning and working. I did have a bunch of dog bones in plastic bags in the lower bin. They may have blocked the lower flow vent? I moved them up to the next bin and left the bottom empty. I got a little flow through the top fridge vent after that, but not much. I unplugged the fridge for 30 seconds and plugged it back in. Compressor and fans came right on. It's been going for the last five minutes. I am going to check it again later. I'm thinking either fridge and/or freezer T-stat or damper controls. Looking on my wiring diagram, it lists the baffle assembly as one unit with 6 connections. I have an electronic defrost module. The T-stats appear outside the defrost module. Any test points and procedure would be great.
PS: I can scan and post a wiring chart if you want.
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Rank: Member
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It's been running strong overnight and temps now seem normal. Not sure if it's running all the time or the normal cycle. Nothing frozen in the fridge section. Maybe it was my vent blockage in the freezer? Or could I have an intermittent problem? It's been 90's to 100 where I live and I don't have AC. I'm in a lower daylight basement section of a house. Temps inside in my section are around 80 to low 80's at most. Could that overwork the system? Is there a thermal reset anywhere?
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Originally Posted by: superbabubba  ...Maybe it was my vent blockage in the freezer?...
...It's been 90's to 100 where I live and I don't have AC. I'm in a lower daylight basement section of a house. Temps inside in my section are around 80 to low 80's at most... Both of it could cause it. Pull the refrigerator out of the wall. Remove the rear cover and the front bottom grille and clean the condenser coils. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool KSRS25IKSS01 SIDE-BY-SIDE REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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I have a Whirlpool model W8FRNGFVQ 00 that is frosting up and leaving the fridge warm. I took off the back panel and the coils and everything else back there was encased in a block of ice. It is currently "defrosting" (doors open, food in coolers) and I am trying to figure out how to fix this beast.
I read through a lot of the posts, but as far as I can tell my particular Whirlpool model uses an electronic (adaptive or pulsating I cannot tell) defrost timer and this means that I am stuck on the step where I manually cycle the defrost timer--because I can't. The timer/circuit board in my fridge has no screw and has 6 leads coming out of it. I know that the problem with the fridge is in the defrost cycle, but how do I diagnose whether it is the defrost timer, thermostat, heater or something else altogether?
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Hi. Using the multimeter check the continuity of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat (must be ice cold). If both checks out OK - replace the defrost control board. The thermostat Part number: 2321799
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Samsung "POS" RS265LBBP refrigerator here. POS is not part of the model number, that's my addition based on performance :p Anyways, freezer is good as gold, refrigerator sits around 56-60 degrees with no air movement that I can see. Anyways, thanks to all the research here I did a self diagnosis and it returned section 4 (Fan motor system abnormality in R compartment) and section 7 (Abnormality in defrosting system for R compartment). Should I start with the cheapest/easiest fix by ordering the fan motor item #AP4136569, replacing it, and seeing if that cures the section 7 error as well? If it doesn't then I guess move on to plan B which is troubleshooting the section 7 defrost error? Thanks for the advice :D Oh, and while I'm here does anyone have the service manual for this fridge? I found one for another model online but it has some differences.
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Originally Posted by: rockjeep44 ...Should I start with the cheapest/easiest fix by ordering the fan motor item #AP4136569, replacing it, and seeing if that cures the section 7 error as well? If it doesn't then I guess move on to plan B which is troubleshooting the section 7 defrost error?... I don't see why not. Unfortunately I did not find the service manual for this model. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Gene I don't see why not.
Unfortunately I did not find the service manual for this model.
Gene. Thanks Gene. I placed the order and will report back with my results.
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Hello Gene. A few days ago, I noticed the 'Temp' indicator 'flashing' on the Frig side of my Samsung #RS2556SH refrigerator, and it wasn't getting cold. I could tell the evap fan wasn't operating, so I turned to your forum here for advice. I initially pulled off the evap panel and defrosted it, thinking that may be the problem. I put everything back together, and still the fan didn't operate. I assumed it was a bad fan motor (the old one is about 7+ yrs old) so I ordered a new one from AppliancePartsPros.com ( part # AP4136543). It arrived today and I replaced it but it's still not operating. When I do a self-diagnostic test of the control unit, I get NO error messages at all. Also, an item of note, not sure if it might be related to the evap fan or not, but the right-hand light bulb on the main evap panel is not working...I just replaced it with a new bulb today as well. I thought it was a bad bulb, but not sure now. Wiring harness maybe? Bulb holder? I'm not sure what might be wrong here, so I'm turning to you for help. I'm pretty handy so I haven't called a Tech out yet; I was hoping I could do the repairs myself. Thanks in advance for your help! Jim
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Hi Jim, Check the DC voltage to the motor. Power off and back on the refrigerator. Make sure the compressor is on. Wait from 10 to 60 seconds for the fan voltage to kick in, and then check the fan voltage. The average reading is 9 VDC. If you get 3 seconds of voltage every 10 seconds for the 5 fan power up cycles, then the main PCB is good. Otherwise replace the main PCB. - The main PCB Part number: DA41-00104M
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