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manshack_one  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, August 15, 2012 6:59:04 PM(UTC)
manshack_one

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Posts: 8

Have had this issue with this dryer ever since a friend gave it to us. They claimed it worked fine for them. Takes two full 60 minute cycles to dry the clothes completely. Drum turns freely, lint traps and exhaust are all clear. The heating element on this model isn't the kind that goes around the drum. It actually looks like a little radiator that fits on the back with a box around it. I'm replacing the drive belt which just snapped tonight and thought I should ask about it while I'm going to have it open. Is it possible for part of that element to go out and not generate enough heat? I know there's a continuity circuit in the ones that go around the drum but from the pictures online this one just looks like it's five little coils stacked on top of each other so I can't tell if they are continuous or not. Also, on top of the box that houses the element, as if your looking down into the dryer, there is a hole in the top of that box. Doesn't look like it's burned through, or rusted or anything like that. Not sure if that is for ventilation or not.

Before I put the dryer in I had replaced the outlet on the wall due to the last dryers plug shorting out and causing a minor meltdown. I've got 110V on each positive side of the outlet when you touch one outside to the ground in the middle and then 220V when you touch the two positive ones so I'm pretty sure it's getting the right amount of voltage.

Any suggestions would be great! Going to the part store tomorrow for the drive belt and would like to get everything at the same time if anyone thinks the heating element is the culprit. Dryer acts completely normal otherwise.

Thanks!

P.S. Heating element part number is 3403585 but they are substituting 279838.
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manshack_one  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, August 15, 2012 7:30:58 PM(UTC)
manshack_one

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I took the back panel off of the dryer and noticed where the heating element is that there is only one red wire hooked up to it and another connector on the same little block has no wire connected. Is this normal? I dont find any extra wire leads in the back that are not connected to something. The thermostat wires are connected. Any clues?
manshack_one  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, August 15, 2012 7:46:07 PM(UTC)
manshack_one

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Here you can see the connector and the open box on the bottom. Am I missing a part of the box or something?
manshack_one attached the following image(s):
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denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, August 16, 2012 1:31:45 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Whirlpool LER5636KQ1 RESIDENTIAL DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

As you can see from the wiring diagram the orange wire goes to the timer motor. This is used for auto cycle modes. The timer is only advanced when the heating coil is shut off by the thermostat.

Your heater is just a single coil.

You said it takes two 60 minute cycles for clothes to dry so I assume that you are not using an auto mode.
If in auto does the timer advance?
If not you may have a grounded element.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil (the two red wires).
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on 120 volts greatly reducing the heat output.

The most common cause of having to use two cycles is the vent system.
Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.
File Attachment(s):
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