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Burnemac  
#1681 Posted : Tuesday, July 24, 2012 11:32:23 AM(UTC)
Burnemac

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I want to say that Gene, broke it down so that i think that anyone could understand what is the problem, where to find the problem, and how to correct the problem..... I really wanted to say Thanks..... I fixed my frig, when my wife was like lets get another one....... and to repair it didnt cost that much......:D
Simon / APP Team  
#1682 Posted : Tuesday, July 24, 2012 12:13:45 PM(UTC)
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Thank you.
SO kind of you.

Simon.
Polojess  
#1683 Posted : Tuesday, July 24, 2012 1:06:32 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Hi.

Check if the both fan motors are working, check if the evaporator coils are evenly covered with frost not ice.
Defrost the fridge for 12 hrs with doors open (unplug it).

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric HTS18GBMCRWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.



Hey Simon, thanks for the response!

I already let unit defrost for a day and that's when the food compartment started cooling some again, but only to 50F. I will recheck the coils for frost as the unit had been unplugged for an hour or so before I got the panel off to look at them. Again, a littl ebit of ice on the lower coils but not too bad. The fan in the freezer seems to be working...where is the other fan? Again, there is some cool air blowing through the ceiling damper but apparently not enough to keep the food compartment below 50F. BTW the freezer is now measuring 0F so it's definitely working properly.

Update - coils are pretty even;y coated with frost, no ice, and the fan by the coils is working and is the fan at the bottom back of the fridge! When I say "working" I mean they are both spinning anyway.
Simon / APP Team  
#1684 Posted : Wednesday, July 25, 2012 12:54:58 PM(UTC)
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Hi.

Sounds like the problem is with the air flow between freezer and fresh food sections. Check return ducts and damper for icing.
Make sure the damper is open all the way.

Thank you.

Simon.
jdbs3  
#1685 Posted : Friday, July 27, 2012 7:59:57 AM(UTC)
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Quote:
As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil,
Quote:
3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.
4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

Admiral LTF1812ARZ refrigerator

Glad I found this site and the description of the problem. Yes, I have the excess frost blocking the airflow - lots of ice buildup covering the vents on both sides of the control in the freezer.

1. I plan to follow the steps outlined by Gene. But for steps 3 and 4, should I first empty the refrigerator and unplug it to let it defrost, and then do this test? Or just do this first test with the refrigerator as is?

2. And this may have been a self inflicted problem by not keeping a 1/2" - 1" space behind the frozen food and the back of the refrigerator. If so, what is the possibility that unplugging the refrigerator and letting it defrost will cure the problem?

thanks

Simon / APP Team  
#1686 Posted : Friday, July 27, 2012 10:28:47 AM(UTC)
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Hi.

Follow the instructions to determine witch part is bad.
Do not defrost the fridge before the diagnostics.

Simon.
jdbs3  
#1687 Posted : Saturday, July 28, 2012 3:47:36 AM(UTC)
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OK, I will do the diagnosis with the refrigerator as is.

But
Quote:
And this may have been a self inflicted problem by not keeping a 1/2" - 1" space behind the frozen food and the back of the refrigerator. If so, what is the possibility that unplugging the refrigerator and letting it defrost will cure the problem?


could it be that what I did above caused the problem, so no parts are actually bad, and a simple defrost with the refrigerator unplugged would resolve the problem?

Or is this just wishful thinking?

Thanks - on to diagnosis after I get back from work today.


jdbs3  
#1688 Posted : Sunday, July 29, 2012 5:34:34 AM(UTC)
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Well it's not the defrost timer. No sizzling noise after starting the defrost cycle, rather just the normal defrost sound.

But now I can't get the wire rack out of its slots so I can get the back freezer panel off to check the defrost heater and thermostat; there has got to be an easy way of doing this

I'll read this thread later today to see if there is any info on how to do it, including how to remove the ice maker which I never use anyway.

Until then, the refrigerator is defrosting so I might end up answering my own question below about whether a simple defrost will resolve the problem.

But I'd still like to know if this is just wishful thinking. Anyone??

Quote:
could it be that what I did above caused the problem, so no parts are actually bad, and a simple defrost with the refrigerator unplugged would resolve the problem?


Thanks
Simon / APP Team  
#1689 Posted : Monday, July 30, 2012 10:57:08 AM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

Most likely it's the defrost problem, not just an accident. You can defrost and restart the fridge, but I would check the thermostat and heater for the continuity (the thermostat must be icy cold).

Thank you.

Simon.
klj25  
#1690 Posted : Monday, July 30, 2012 12:22:55 PM(UTC)
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Gene
what if you have ice in the refrigerator side? there is ice build up behind the plastic cover on the fridge side, Ive tried thawing it before but it keeps comming back.....is it time to just get a new refrigerator or call in some experts?


Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
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