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Replacement parts for AOES3030WW models | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.
[COLOR="Blue"]
I tested the element and each side was getting 120v. I replaced the element but no change. I assume that since juice is getting to the element, the relay is working.[/COLOR]
This is not correct.
I will try to explain why not if it does not make sense just reply and I will rephrase it.
The element runs on L1 to L2 power. The ground/Neutral is not part of the circuit.
There are 2 relays in the elements circuit.
DLB relay this switches L1 power to all elements. Since the broil works I assume that this relay is OK.
Bake relay this switches in L2 power to the bake relay. It is the one that is regulating the bake relay's heat.
My guess is that when you measured, the DLB relay was closed but not the bake relay. So you see the L1 (120) voltage. Since there is not a circuit path no current flows through the element so it does not drop any voltage so you see the same voltage on the other side of the element.
You have to measure across the element and should see 240 volts.
The power to the unit is actually two 120 volt supplies that are 180 degrees out of phase. Therefore when one is positive 120, the other is negative 120 so if you measure between the two you get 240. This is what powers the element. A meter cannot distinguish between the two.

Using ground/Neutral for one meter lead is confusing.

[COLOR="Blue"]And since the oven can keep the temp, it appears that the thermostat is working.[/COLOR]
Yes it sounds OK

[COLOR="Blue"]So the lower element is heating either some or none of the time.[/COLOR]
This also sounds correct but I am not sure it ever heats up.
If the wiring is good then I would say that the control board is toast.
Either the bake relay's contacts are shot, it soil is open or the electronics controlling the relay are shot.