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I have a Kenmore side-by-side (106.52292100) and the icemaker has issues from time to time. From what I can tell, it looks like the fill cup in the icemaker gets frozen and the water backs up into the fill tube (hope I have the right terminology). It's the black rubber tube that comes down from the top of the freezer cabinet. To unfreeze it, I typically hold a cup of hot water up underneath it to get most of the ice out, then I have to use a heat gun (from a good distance) to melt the rest. Takes about 10-15 minutes and seems to happen every month or so.
It also looks like water is spraying out - I see icicles hanging from the icemaker, and bits of ice on top of the icemaker. The icemaker itself does not seem to be leaking.
Any ideas on a good place to start would be welcome!
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for Kenmore 10652292100 | AppliancePartsPros.comI would replace the water valve. If it does not close reliably/fast enough then it will let a couple drops through and these will freeze in the ice maker fill tube and can cause problems. If tout water supply line has a filter then check/replace that filter. make sure the water supply line shut-off valve is fully open. Low water pressure can also cause valve to not close quick enough. |
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Going from bad to worse - Now, no water comes out.
I *believe* that I got all of the ice out of the fill tube. When I gently probe up in there, I don't feel any hard resistance. I've squirted very hot water up in the tube a couple of times now.
The icemaker is empty and clear. I replaced the water filter, and I get water from the front dispenser.
I tried a jumper between T & H - no result
I do not see the light flashing on the side panel. pressed the door switch on the opposite side, still no light.
I replaced the control module about 2 years ago.
Is this pointing to electrical rather than fluid/mechanical?
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Are you sure that you did not knock something loose when trying to clear the fill tube.
Unplug the unit and then the ice maker connector.
Then reconnect and see if it works.
Does sound like an electrical problem but I cannot see how it is related to your original problem. |
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Good call on the connection - I thought it was plugged back in but there may have been some ice buildup in the plug. So , now I have ice in the maker, and some ice still in the fill tube (just a little at the end), so it does sound like the water valve - ordered a replacement.
However, the ice has been in there quite a bit today and it hasn't run the harvest cycle yet. And I still don't have any lights flashing on the side panel. (Not sure that I ever did see a light there before). Tried the T-H jumper again but the harvest cycle still didn't start. (used a 12-gauge solid wire).
Are there any other jumper combinations to try? Would it have put water in the maker if the electric eye wasn't working? There may even be a bit more ice in the maker tray than normal, due to the bad valve. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
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[COLOR="Blue"]Are there any other jumper combinations to try?[/COLOR] Not that I know of. I am not sure if the larger 12 gauge wire you used would hit the connections in the unit, oerhaps try a smaller wire guage. Below is info on the test. Initiating a Test Cycle Removing the front cover of the icemaker will expose the test points on the module. These test points can be used to test components and to initiate an ice harvest cycle. Checking between test points L and N with a Voltmeter set to the appropriate AC scale will confirm the presence of 120 VAC to the icemaker. If the source voltage is present and the ice is down to temperature, the icemaker should be cycling. If the icemaker fails to initialize the harvest, a jumper wire (made from a short piece of 14 gauge electrical wire that has been stripped back ½ inch on both ends) can be used to start the cycle. Inserting the jumper between contacts T and H will simulate the closing of the thermostat and will energize the timer motor and the heater. Removethe jumper after 3 seconds. The icemaker should continue to run without the jumper in place. If the jumper is not removed prior to the ejector blades reaching the 10:00 o’clock position, the water valve will not energize. Rotating the ejector blades or drive gears manually will destroy the module assembly. Always use the jumper to cycle the icemaker. Never jump any test points other than those specified. If the icemaker starts when the jumper is inserted, the thermostat is defective. If the icemaker doesn’t start and there is power to the unit, the problem is in the module. In either case, replace the icemaker. Jump Across T and H Remove jumper after about 3 seconds, before the blades reach the 10 o’clock position. [COLOR="Blue"]Would it have put water in the maker if the electric eye wasn't working?[/COLOR] I do not think so but am not sure. Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...ezing.html#ixzz207h2VEXihttp://forum.appliancepartspros.comClick on the picture and a new page with a Q&A section will open. Part number: AP4359694
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Okay, finally got back to this thing. Here's what I have so far.
Ordered new valve. Hoping that will take care of the fill tube issues (it does appear to ice up after the tray fills, like there was a small continuous drip).
However, still can't get the tray to harvest. Did the jumper between T & H - no joy. (used 14 gauge solid wire).
I'm getting voltage in L & V.
So it sounds like I need to replace the control module (again - replaced it almost exactly 1 year ago). Or do I need to replace the entire icemaker?
*** added: Pulled the icemaker, removed the cubes, then put it back in. The harvester blades made a revolution, the trays filled again, and then it just sits there, full of ice. I'd think it's the eye gone bad, but wouldn't the jumper in T & H bypass that?
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I do not think that the jumper overrides the eye. |
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Okay, still no luck here. I've replaced the water valve and confirmed that I get water through the water dispenser. I replaced the optics, and confirmed that I get a solid red light with the door flap closed. Light goes out and turns back on if I interrupt the beam with my hand.
However, at this point the icemaker isn't even filling up with water. I took it out, emptied the ice from the trays, and put it back in. The harvest blades are at 2 o'clock if you look at it from the end with the module.
Turned the power off, and jumpered T & H. Turned it back on, closed the door, and left it for about 15 seconds. Still no movement on the harvest blades. Still getting voltage in L & V.
Does it sound like the control module has gone bad? Any other tests or diagnostics that I can run?
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