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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team  Ray, Thanks for the "p" number, It made things a lot easier. You actually have all 3 components, cooling fan, fan limit switch and a High limit switch. (see attached) Part number: AP4041090
The information you just gave me, tells me everything is working as designed, except the hi limit switch. On your unit it is located on the top, left side of the oven cavity(under the cooktop). It's still easier to access the thermostat from the back, instead of through the top of the unit. (you may need a "stubby" screwdriver or nut driver). Once you replace the limit switch, you'll be fine. Good luck, :) i FINALLY replaced the high limit sensor, as you suggested! It was sitting in a box for a year after I ordered it! (My wife finally said fix it, or I'm buying a new $4000 stove). Well, after I installed the high limit sensor neither the oven or broiler will light or do anything! The regular burners work fine, and there is gas flowing to the unit. Before the "repair" it took about 5 minutes for the oven to light. It would just sit there thinking about whether it wanted to light for 5 minutes. Now, it won't light at all. What is my next repair Sir, to fix this problem?
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Originally Posted by: Ray Theon i FINALLY replaced the high limit sensor, as you suggested! It was sitting in a box for a year after I ordered it! (My wife finally said fix it, or I'm buying a new $4000 stove). Well, after I installed the high limit sensor neither the oven or broiler will light or do anything! The regular burners work fine, and there is gas flowing to the unit. Before the "repair" it took about 5 minutes for the oven to light. It would just sit there thinking about whether it wanted to light for 5 minutes. Now, it won't light at all. What is my next repair Sir, to fix this problem? Ray, Disconnect the wire harness from the bake and/or broil igniter. Program a cycle. and check for 120 VAC in the connector from the cabinet wire harness for the igniter. If you have the voltge, you'll need to check for 3.2 to 3.6 VAC at the burner valve, across the wires that come from the igniter to the valve. Low or no voltage at the gas valve terminals, would indicate a weak or broken igniter, and the switch will not open to release the gas and ignite. :) :) :)
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The part mentioned in the forum, AP4280271 or manufacturer number Y0308607, is no longer offered by most retailers. What would you recommend as a way to fix the stove if that part is broken? Can the transformer of motor be replaced as a subcomponent?
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Originally Posted by: davidium The part mentioned in the forum, AP4280271 or manufacturer number Y0308607, is no longer offered by most retailers. What would you recommend as a way to fix the stove if that part is broken? Can the transformer of motor be replaced as a subcomponent? David, I guess the cooling fan is not running ? causing the range or control to shut down. Your best bet would be to keep searching the inter net, you have the manufacturer part number, Trying to rebuild a fan motor is probably not cost effective, or possible, unless you have access to a motor rebuild operation. Good Luck and Thanks,
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team David,
I guess the cooling fan is not running ? causing the range or control to shut down. Your best bet would be to keep searching the inter net, you have the manufacturer part number, Trying to rebuild a fan motor is probably not cost effective, or possible, unless you have access to a motor rebuild operation.
Good Luck and Thanks, Joe, yes I replaced the two limit switches on the model ARGS7650WW and the fan motor still doesn't run. The two sub-components are the transformer and the actual motor and it will take a fair amount of time to try and find generic pieces for either. For such a small part, it's definitely been a beating to try and trouble shoot when the manufacturer ceases to support the stove model.
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David, You may not have a fan motor issue. You may not be waiting long enough ? The fan limit switch is an "open" circuit until the area reaches a temp of 155 dgrs, the limit switch closes and allows 120 VAC to the fan motor and the fan runs and cools the control panel and area. A couple of ways to check, Turn off power to the range, connect the Black and Yellow wires at the switch together, and re set power, the fan should run. Another way is to use a 120 VAC power test cord, attach the ends to the fan motor wires and plug the cord into an outlet, the fan motor should run. I've attached the wiring diagram and tech sheet to this response, so you'll be able to test and check the components, and track the circuits. Model ARGS7650WW
 Thanks Again,
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Joe, thanks for your patience. I did test the blower motor independently with a test cord into a wall outlet and it turned on so that's good. I put it back into the stove, put the stove panel back on and turned the oven on to 400. I waited to see if the low limit would flip and turn on the fan but it never came on. Additionally, the oven turned off again due to, and I'm guessing, the high limit switch flipping. Since I just replaced the limit switches, I'm not sure what else to do.
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Originally Posted by: davidium Joe, thanks for your patience. I did test the blower motor independently with a test cord into a wall outlet and it turned on so that's good. I put it back into the stove, put the stove panel back on and turned the oven on to 400. I waited to see if the low limit would flip and turn on the fan but it never came on. Additionally, the oven turned off again due to, and I'm guessing, the high limit switch flipping. Since I just replaced the limit switches, I'm not sure what else to do. David, With an oven temp of 400 dgrs, the cooling fan probably won't start or run for quite sometime. You're sure the thermostats are installed properly and in the correct position( hi limit is mounted closer to the front, the fan switch is closer to the back of the range). and are both rated witin 10 % of the original parts. You could try this, but be careful, Insert a very thin spacer(1/32 or 1/16 in.) under the thermostat mounting tabs, and see if it takes longer to open and shut the range control down. Good Luck,
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Joe, after testing the switches, it looks like there is a problem with the oven exhaust vent going into the compartment where the switches and fan reside so that no matter how hard the blower works, eventually the full oven exhaust wins out and the oven limit flips. I'm trying to figure out how to tweak the vent because the vent is very long but extremely thin(perhaps 1/3 inch) and if the top panel isn't fitting it correctly, then the oven exhaust is partially diverted into the space between the range top and the oven. Any tips? All screws and the gas range outlets are lining up just fine.
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Originally Posted by: davidium Joe, after testing the switches, it looks like there is a problem with the oven exhaust vent going into the compartment where the switches and fan reside so that no matter how hard the blower works, eventually the full oven exhaust wins out and the oven limit flips. I'm trying to figure out how to tweak the vent because the vent is very long but extremely thin(perhaps 1/3 inch) and if the top panel isn't fitting it correctly, then the oven exhaust is partially diverted into the space between the range top and the oven. Any tips? All screws and the gas range outlets are lining up just fine. David, That could be the issue. The end of the vent flue does need to be 1/8 to 1/4 inch up inside the vent cover on the top. You may want to check the oven vent and raise the flue slightly, and use some hi temp foil tape to seal the joints and seams. Thanks Again
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