Pre-diagnostic Check:
Compressor sound like it cycles off and on.
Condenser fan motor runs fast, slows down, high pitched tone, (click, click)and then starts up again and repeats the sequence.

Could not recognize Motorized Air Door. There is a plastic attachment that had some cool air coming from freezer side that had a similar unit at the same spot, just the otherside of the wall.

Refrigerator Thermistor: It's attached, no buttons or scres, or area for a read out.

Evaporator Fan Motor: Cycles on and off. Lower part of freezer is frosted over with frozen snow.

Operate the Evaporator fan at 3000 rpm...How ? I didn't see any place to
set it and same for Condenser fan motor and compressor

Diagnosis / Troubleshooting per the instructions
Top row of numbers do not stay on just flash.
Freezer shows 3, Refrigerator shows 34, Water Filter show 99

Enter diagnostic mode: no beep, keeps flashing, no read outs that correspond to diagnostics chart.

WFI test, did not due as we had water leak some time ago so we just turned off the water source and went without Ice Maker and Water dispenser, due to no $$"s for a repair bill.

Reply #2___________________________________________________________________
My e-mail said you sent a msg and I went and followed the directions. But when I cam back to give you my results I saw you actually sent the msg to Wendy. So since I did what you told her to here are my results. Turned the power off so I would get shocked. Got the back off in the Freezer. Coils had Ice on the, and the water drain was frozen over. Took a high powered LED light and check under the Freezer and it was dry. What do I do next ?
6/13/2012 @ 9:50pm ET / Checked the Freezer and all is dry and drain has defrosted. I'm feeling pretty good about it, almost finished ?
What's next ? Thanks !

6/14/2012 @ 8:00am.............Update.
I turned my frig/freezer back on to see if it was fixed. Nope ! This morning, checked it out, and the coils were icing up again. Little plastic fan was running. Freezer was cold, and Frig was slightly cool. Readings were Freezer 3, Frig 34, Water 99. It has a steady beep-beep going on now ? Where do I go now Gene ? Thanks !

..........

1. How often does it do it?

2. If you are sure that's the condenser fan motor then it's bad and has to be replaced.

3. It should work as long as the compressor does. Does it do it?

4. By running the Diagnostics mode.

5. You have to enter the Diagnostics mode by doing the following: Press and hold the Water Filter Reset keypad, and then immediately press and hold the Power on/off keypad. Continue to press both keypads for 3 seconds, or until you hear a beep.

- The condenser fan motor assembly Part number: W10181323

Hi Gene,

That's the correct model number: RS2530BWP/XAA (see attachment). In your refrigerator troubleshooting doc, there is a picture on page 8 supposedly from an RS2630, which looks the same as mine (the caption claims the RS2630 was a Best Buy exclusive, which is where mine came from, so I'd bet they're very similar):
In-Door-Ice motor removal and testing.doc (1,008kb) downloaded 22 time(s).

Other parts sites, which I won't advertise here, do find the model number and show me parts diagrams that look like my model. *shrug*

Assuming that the controls are the same as the RS2630, do you know how to interpret the self-diagnosis result I described (the lowest bar on the freezer side of the display is illuminated, the remaining bars are not illuminated)?

It is similar to other Samsung models, except that it does NOT have separate coils on the refrigerator side ... it has a "normal" flapper door that opens/closes on the refrigerator side. The other big difference is that other models have LED digits to represent the refrigerator & freezer settings, whereas this one simply has the "stacked bar" display:


Here's what I see when I run the self-diagnostic mode:
ED5P.pdf (464kb) downloaded 11 time(s).

I did find via some other sites that the main PCB is part # DA41-00216A, which is no longer available. It looks like it has been superseded by DA41-00219K.

Given that:
1) the defrost thermistor measures the correct temperature
2) the bimetal switch tests good
3) the defrost heater itself tests good (both via resistance and via direct 110VAC power activating the heater)
4) putting the unit in force defrost mode and seeing 0VAC at the terminals that are supposed to supply power to the defrost heater

... I think that it's safe to assume that the PCB is the problem. Any further suggestions before I just order the PCB and give it a shot?
Thanks!

-Bob

Hi Gene,

I have the exact problem as the title says. I think it's the defrost system.
But how can I access the defrost part. The back panel seems impossible to remove.

My fridge is Kenmore 106.48212500.

Thanks!