Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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OK my fridge stopped making ice and dispensing it so I started troubleshooting. I found the main board had two burnt resisters at the top of the board so I ordered a new board and installed it today. Same dang problem there is no power to the ice auger and the ice maker will not run a test with on off three pushes of the arm. The ice maker green light is on so it has power.
I am at a loss I checked the wiring going into the door at the bottom and its fine. The door water works fine and all of the control panel lights function. The fridge cools great holds temps no icing. I have since moved it to the garage and have started to pull my hair out. Is it still the main board a bad wire or something I am just not thinking of?
Any help is much appreciated!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Ok wow found what is probably the problem. The door switch has a burnt wire. When I depressed the switch the light would turn off so I did not think it was the switch but never bothered to pull it out and inspect.
I pulled the switch out and inspected it and discovered a burnt wire it is the middle wire. The wires are encased in a clear rubber and you can clearly see the middle wire burnt.
When I unplugged and plugged back in the switch the auger will work. If I jiggle the plug and try again it doesn't work so I guess this makes the problem intermittent now but how do I solve it.
The wires are not long so I guess I need to cut away the rubber and replace the one lead on the middle wire.
I am still not sure why it is burnt maybe loose and sparking that would explain the intermittent problem. There is no sign of burning on the switch it self.
Any idea guys?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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All right I pulled the clear rubber encasement off the middle wire and it was not burnt. There is a shrink tubing that is black on the middle wire so it looked burnt. I am still able to produce an intermittent problem but for whatever reason it occurs after I push the switch back into the wall. I am suspicious that the switch case is deforming enough to cause poor contact internally when it is pushed back into the wall.
I will replace the switch and see if I can get the problem to go away all together.
Anyone dealt with this problem before would be great if you could share.
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