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My dryer runs but won't heat.
I discovered a video (here?) that explained troubleshooting, but now I can't find it again.
How to get the cabinet open?
What to check? (I have a volt-ohm meter)
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Hi.
Please provide the complete model number. Also you listed it as the gas dryer, check that too.
Thank you.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team  Hi.
Please provide the complete model number. Also you listed it as the gas dryer, check that too.
Thank you.
Simon. Well, I have the book that came with it, and it has a photo of the control panel that exactly matches what I have, and it's identified as "Heavy Duty LDE9900 Computer Touch Control". I was hoping to get some preliminary information before I have to disconnect the gas pipe and pull it out into the room, as it will block the door to the room : ( It is an LP gas dryer.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
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Hi. Open the little cover at the bottom right corner and start the dryer. If the ignitor glows then most likely the control coils are bad. If not - check the ignitor's continuity. Unplug the dryer. Remove two screws at the bottom of the front panel and pull it up and out to one side. Now you have access to the ignitor, control coils, thermal fuse. First check the ignitor then the fuse(located on the blower wheel housing). When checking the thermal fuse pull off one wire. If all this checks OK move to the control panel, locate the heater relay(second from the left) and check the coil's continuity.Then turn the dryer on and check if there is voltage across coil contact. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Maytag LDG9900 DRYER- GAS | AppliancePartsPros.comGood luck. Post the results. Simon.
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The ignitor has continuity. I'm guessing the thermal fuse is the leftmost gizmo of the three things mounted on the blower duct (see attached photo) . . . it looks like it contains a little flat thing that will pull out for replacement. If I pull one wire off, the gizmo shows continuity. What are the other two things? The rightmost one looks like a disc thermostat. Is the control panel up at the top on the back of the dryer? Do you get to it by removing the back, or does the top lift up somehow? Found this advice on a nearby post: " Using the multimeter check continuity of the hi - limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, ignitor, flame sensor (remove one wire off when testing). You should read less then 1 Ohm (except the ignitor)." Is the flame sensor that small box mounted to look through a hole in the sheet metal flame duct? I see another thing that looks like a disc thermostat mounted on the flame duct, too. Please explain where all the parts are for these tests. And what they look like.
The two things that I guess are disc thermostats have continuity. The thing that I think is the flame sensor does not indicate continuity. Does it close or open when there is flame there? --------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi. Open the little cover at the bottom right corner and start the dryer. If the ignitor glows then most likely the control coils are bad. If not - check the ignitor's continuity. Unplug the dryer. Remove two screws at the bottom of the front panel and pull it up and out to one side. Now you have access to the ignitor, control coils, thermal fuse. First check the ignitor then the fuse(located on the blower wheel housing). When checking the thermal fuse pull off one wire. If all this checks OK move to the control panel, locate the heater relay(second from the left) and check the coil's continuity.Then turn the dryer on and check if there is voltage across coil contact. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Maytag LDG9900 DRYER- GAS | AppliancePartsPros.comGood luck. Post the results. Simon. Clueless2 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Hi.
The three things on the picture are thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat. At the top of the burner is hi - limit thermostat and flame sensor.You should reed <1ohm. Thermistor at room t*- 10Kohms (approx).
Refer to the link in my previous post for the diagrams and parts for pictures and locations.
Thank you.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2012(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi.
The three things on the picture are thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat. At the top of the burner is hi - limit thermostat and flame sensor.You should reed <1ohm. Thermistor at room t*- 10Kohms (approx).
Refer to the link in my previous post for the diagrams and parts for pictures and locations.
Thank you.
Simon. OK, here's what I'm getting -- thermal fuse -- 0 ohms (continuity) thermistor -- 20,000 ohms cycling thermostat -- 0 ohms hi-limit thermostat -- 0 ohms flame sensor -- no conductivity -- is that the part that's defective? Or is that the normal situation when the dryer is not running?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
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At room t* the flame sensor should be closed. It's opens at 1500*F. If you sure in your measurements then it's your bad part. You can test it by installing jumper on the sensor and turn the dryer on a for few seconds. If the ignitor starts glowing - replace the flame sensor. The flame sensor Part number: 338906
Good luck. Post the results. Simon.
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Rank: Member
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The flame sensor came and I put it in. Seems to be working; flame lights. I will need to have a batch of wet stuff to see if it finishes the drying cycle.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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