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No heat
No 110 volts coming to gas valve
Is there any on board self diagnostics testing for control boards or troubleshooting.
Are there any schematics for this model.
I did a continuity check at the following components
holding and secondary coil
igniter
radiant sensor
high limit thermostat
thermal fuse and thermostat
all show continuity
Thanks Jaime
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Jaime,
The tech sheets with the troubleshooting instructions and the wiring diagram should be inside the control panel. Sears does not provide any technical information on-line.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Hello Gene,
Thanks for the replay, I found the wiring inside the control panel. Looks like the secondary coil is out of spec, ohm reading is 1337 ohms the readings says it should be 1220 ohms +- 50, (on line troubleshooting say just check for continuity) I will pick up a set tomorrow.
I am not sure if there is something else I should be looking at, The tech sheet inside the control panel guilds me to TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEM NO HEAT - had me check the Supply connection-Tested OK, High Limit Thermostat Tested- OK, Thermal fuse Tested-OK, Gas Valve Tested- out of specs.
Thanks for the time
best regards
Jaime
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
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Can you post the troubleshooting instructions (full tech sheets is better) you found?
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Hello Gene, I am not sure how to post the troubleshooting instructions, can you guild me through it, and I will post.
I replaced the gas valve coil and also the ignitor it was bad, still no heat.
I was able to run the diagnostic test, the procedure leads me to taking a temperature reading with the exhaust vent removed, it says use a glass bulb thermometer, I used a Master cool infrared thermometer, no heat my reading was 65.5 degrees, It says if it checks within the normal limits of the examples given replace the electronic assembly. (chart example gave 70 degrees 11.9 k ohms (my measurements were 65.5 degrees at 12.39 ohms)
any ideas?
thanks
jaime
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/19/2009(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Hello Gene, I am not sure how to post the troubleshooting instructions, can you guild me through it, and I will post.
I replaced the gas valve coil and also the ignitor it was bad, still no heat.
I was able to run the diagnostic test, the procedure leads me to taking a temperature reading with the exhaust vent removed, it says use a glass bulb thermometer, I used a Master cool infrared thermometer, no heat my reading was 65.5 degrees, It says if it checks within the normal limits of the examples given replace the electronic control assembly. (chart example gave 70 degrees 11.9 k ohms (my measurements were 65.5 degrees at 12.39 ohms)
any ideas?
Thanks
Jaime
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/19/2009(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Hello Gene,
I followed the schematic and checked the voltage at the heater relay (P3-1 to P3-2 should be 48VDC, COM to NO should be ~0VAC) I had the 48VDC but the COM/NO was 120VAC. I checked the parts list the heater relay and the motor relay are the same, I swapped them, in a short time the heater turned on and the dryer would run as long as I held the start switch in. I will purchase a heater relay tomorrow and see if that fixes my problem.
best regards
Jaime
I will see if I can find a way to scan the tech sheet, I am a little slow in using the computer.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I believe you are on the right track. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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