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Originally Posted by: Gene  Coupling and drive block are absolutely different parts. Can you refer to the diagram numbers which part did you call "coupling"?
Does the washer drain? If it does then open and close the lid while it's draining. Post the results.
Gene. You did not answer my questions yet. Gene.
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As I stated the motor runs and pumps just fine. The tub will not spin. The drive coupling between the motor and transmition as well as the clutch are good. Again the lid switch meters good and also has been jumped out of the circuit. Still no tub spin.:confused:
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Pull the pump and motor and turn the coupler clockwise; will the basket now spin, or is it hard to turn the coupler.
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The motor drive coupling (#13 on the diagram)  is not questionable at this time. I meant the drive block  which shown as #17 on another diagram. Due to your washer has a neutral drain transmission, it should stop for a few seconds during the drain to engage the spin. By opening the lid during the drain you will simulate this stop interval and if the spin will engage then the timer is the culprit. It has nothing to do with the lid switch itself. Gene.
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With the motor and pump removed the drive coupling is easy to turn clockwise, however no tub spin. What should I look for at the drive block? Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: Gene Just click on the above link. Gene.
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You may have to turn the tranny coupler many turns to shift the tranny to spin. If it never engages spin, you have a bad tranny, probably a bad nylon gear which is sold together with the pinion gear. Part # 285362
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