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SolomonMan  
#11 Posted : Tuesday, March 27, 2012 7:53:56 PM(UTC)
SolomonMan

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Gene,
I read your post about the testing the compressor.

It passes both the resistance and ground test.

What I did find was a Compressor Staring device (relay?) that rattles, smells burnt, and small pieces falling out.

I am guessing this is not normal....and should be replaced...Please let me know what you think...should I also replace the ADC board as well?

Thanks again,
Chris
Gene  
#12 Posted : Wednesday, March 28, 2012 3:38:32 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Chris,

This start device should be the next step in our troubleshooting. It it does rattle, then it's definitely has to be replaced.

One more thing. 105 VAC coming to the thermostat from the ADC while the incoming voltage is around 120 VAC is very bad because the compressor requires 120 VAC ± 10%. If voltage is less than 108 VAC, it will damage the compressor very soon. So, to avoid possible troubles I would recommend to replace ADC board too.

If the compressor is the original then the start device Part number: AP3885081
Part number: AP3885081



If the compressor has been already replaced then the start device Part number: AP3083556
Part number: AP3083556



Gene.
SolomonMan  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, March 28, 2012 4:13:50 PM(UTC)
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Gene,
Thanks for the help!

I will order both parts later this evening and will keep you posted on the outcome.

Chris
SolomonMan  
#14 Posted : Friday, March 30, 2012 8:43:44 AM(UTC)
SolomonMan

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Gene,
The cooling parts (starter relay and ADC board) were order and UPS tracking says they may be here tomorrow.

But I was thinking about the ice maker.....Actually wife was pushing to try and correct the ice maker.

The ice maker stopped working out of the blue as I had mention previously.

I believe the issue has to do with water supply to the ice tray section as the tray has no ice or water in the ice tray section.

My water supply to the water outlet in the front of the fridge works fine.

Need some guidance here...I believe the issue is its not getting water in the tray area.

I see there is a Emmitter/Receiver, Thermostat, and a Valve inlet that plays a part in the ice maker system. Can you guide me in how to test?

My plans are if the cooling gets working again to buy the replacement parts for the ice maker but I was thinking that it may be easier to trouble shoot things with the refridge empty and out in the open then once all the food is back.

Once again I really appreciate the help,
Chris
Gene  
#15 Posted : Friday, March 30, 2012 3:42:12 PM(UTC)
Gene

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The ice maker requires the temperature in the freezer to be at least 10°F. If the refrigerator is off, no tests can be done.

Gene.
SolomonMan  
#16 Posted : Sunday, April 8, 2012 7:05:33 PM(UTC)
SolomonMan

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Gene,
The refrigerator seems to be working. I got it back together this past Friday. Would have been Monday afternoon but wife had unexpected surgery for a gall bladder problem, had it removed, and spent the week in the hospital.

I also replaced the water filter and cleaned the unit inside and out....Looks almost new now.

The refrigerator freezes u-fill ice trays (freezer) and keeps things cold (both sides). I have it set one up (warmer) from the "standard" middle settings (both sides) as there is not much in the unit as I did a major cleanout. The compressor is very quite but it is running (vibration) and it gets warm but not hot to the touch. It appears to cycle...meaning it does turn off for large periods of time and then turns back on as I would expect. (Had the refrigerator outside its normal location till end of day Saturday making sure.

Anyways the only thing I do not have is my ice maker working. I believe I read somewhere it may take up to 2-3 days for it to make the first bunch of ice but I do not see water in the automatic ice maker tray yet. Its below 10 degrees in the freezer according to my thermometer (not very good one but my ice cream is frozen as well as popcicles for the kids) and I have flipped the ice maker switch (inside freezer) at least once since Saturday.

Any suggestions... should I give it another flip of the switch (ice maker)...or leave it for a couple more days?

Thanks,
Chris
Gene  
#17 Posted : Tuesday, April 10, 2012 1:52:52 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Chris,

I wish your wife to get well.

I'm glad you were able to fix the fridge. Let's do the ice maker troubleshooting now.

Does the water dispenser work? If it does, locate the water inlet valve on the back of the fridge. Swap the wires between the solenoids. Press the water dispenser lever for a few seconds and check if there is water in the ice maker.

If there is no water, replace the water inlet valve.

If there is water, post it and we'll go further.

- The water inlet valve Part number: AP5263471
SolomonMan  
#18 Posted : Thursday, April 12, 2012 9:01:48 AM(UTC)
SolomonMan

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Gene,
I am traveling for work currently but will be able to take a look either Sunday or early next week.

Thanks so much for your reply and the help,
Chris
SolomonMan  
#19 Posted : Monday, April 16, 2012 9:05:05 AM(UTC)
SolomonMan

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Gene,
The Water Inelt Valve seems to be the issue.

When the water switch is flipped on the front I get 120V at the cold water Water Inlet Connection. I applied that to ice maker Water Inlet valve as instructed and no click nor water in the ice maker. Tried it more then once...still nothing. Placed it on the water inlet valve for the cold water dispenser and water out the front as expected.

I will order the part Friday....Keep you posted.

Thanks,
Chris
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