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First-off, this microwave has been acting weird for quite a while, e.g.: if I press a # on the keypad for a timed cook, the fan may come on and when you press the fan-off pad the lower light may come on etc., like the touch pad has lost continuity. Recently it lost power to everything but the interior(oven) light. After some research I decided to replace the Touch Pad, but after reassembling I still had no power except for the interior light. I took the plactic cover off the in-line fuse and it looks to be ok and since I do have power to the interior light, I assume it is okay. I'm thinking the problem may be with one of the door safety switches, but which one.:confused: I would like to have some experienced insight before going forward. Am I going in the right direction or should I be looking somewhere else for the fault? Thanks and I appreciate any help/advice.[/font]
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Originally Posted by: okpotter  First-off, this microwave has been acting weird for quite a while, e.g.: if I press a # on the keypad for a timed cook, the fan may come on and when you press the fan-off pad the lower light may come on etc., like the touch pad has lost continuity. Recently it lost power to everything but the interior(oven) light. After some research I decided to replace the Touch Pad, but after reassembling I still had no power except for the interior light. I took the plactic cover off the in-line fuse and it looks to be ok and since I do have power to the interior light, I assume it is okay. I'm thinking the problem may be with one of the door safety switches, but which one.:confused: I would like to have some experienced insight before going forward. Am I going in the right direction or should I be looking somewhere else for the fault? Thanks and I appreciate any help/advice.[/font] Okpotter, You're on the right track, Presuming everything works, accept the cook mode. You have power through the TCO'S and fuse are OK, the cavity light works per your post. That leaves, the primary interlock switch ( at the top of the door switch bracket assembly) there should be a closed circuit between the black and red wire terminals to the single black wire terminal of the switch, with the door closed. You'll need to check the secondary door switch for the same circuitry (Disconnect the CN2 connector and check across the two wires, door closed, the circuit should be closed. The interlock switch red and blue wire should be an open circuit with the door closed. If your door switch circuits and wiring check proper, you'll need a new control board Part number: AP4062549
Thanks and Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Okpotter, You're on the right track, Presuming everything works, accept the cook mode. You have power through the TCO'S and fuse are OK, the cavity light works per your post. That leaves, the primary interlock switch ( at the top of the door switch bracket assembly) there should be a closed circuit between the black and red wire terminals to the single black wire terminal of the switch, with the door closed. You'll need to check the secondary door switch for the same circuitry (Disconnect the CN2 connector and check across the two wires, door closed, the circuit should be closed. The interlock switch red and blue wire should be an open circuit with the door closed. If your door switch circuits and wiring check proper, you'll need a new control board Part number: AP4062549
Thanks and Good Luck, :) :) :) Joe...thanks for the quick reply. Just to make sure you know what's happening with the micro. The only thing presently working is the interior light. There's no display on the touchpad or rotation or cooking...just the interior light. Is that your understanding of my problem? Thanks again for your help and hopefully I'll have a chance to check the circuits tonight.
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Originally Posted by: okpotter Joe...thanks for the quick reply. Just to make sure you know what's happening with the micro. The only thing presently working is the interior light. There's no display on the touchpad or rotation or cooking...just the interior light. Is that your understanding of my problem? Thanks again for your help and hopefully I'll have a chance to check the circuits tonight. OK, Now, it'll be easier. You'll need to be careful, this is a live voltage test. Once you have the control panel down, and access to the connectors on the PCB(printed circuit board) remove the CN5 connector from the board. with the door closed and the power cord plugged in, check the number three pin(black wire) for 120 VAC to chassis ground. Then pin 5 (orange wire) for 120 VAC to chassis ground If you have the voltage, you will need the control board. If no voltage, check the black wire back to the door switch for breaks/damage, and the red wire at the door switch for 120 VAC to chasssis ground. Voltage on the black and orange wires on the CN5 conn. will confirm the fuse, mag.TCO and door switch and wiring are OK, that leaves the control board circuits and components as the culprit. :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team OK,
Now, it'll be easier. You'll need to be careful, this is a live voltage test. Once you have the control panel down, and access to the connectors on the PCB(printed circuit board) remove the CN5 connector from the board. with the door closed and the power cord plugged in, check the number three pin(black wire) for 120 VAC to chassis ground. Then pin 5 (orange wire) for 120 VAC to chassis ground If you have the voltage, you will need the control board. If no voltage, check the black wire back to the door switch for breaks/damage, and the red wire at the door switch for 120 VAC to chasssis ground. Voltage on the black and orange wires on the CN5 conn. will confirm the fuse, mag.TCO and door switch and wiring are OK, that leaves the control board circuits and components as the culprit.
:) :) :) Fantastic...I'm glad I waited for your reply. I'm always extremely careful when it comes to electricity. Ya just can't see it sneaking up on you!:eek: These are great instructions and easy to understand and follow. With my luck it'll be the circuit board ($), but it's well worth fixing. I appreciate your time and help and will let you know how this plays out. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: okpotter Fantastic...I'm glad I waited for your reply. I'm always extremely careful when it comes to electricity. Ya just can't see it sneaking up on you!:eek: These are great instructions and easy to understand and follow. With my luck it'll be the circuit board ($), but it's well worth fixing. I appreciate your time and help and will let you know how this plays out. Thanks! Okpotter, I'm thinking you'll have this thing figured out and up and running in no time. Remember to stay way from the high voltage components,if you stay out of the interior cabinet, you'll be fine. And please post a report when you're done. We appreciate it, and it will assist others in the future. Thanks, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: okpotter Fantastic...I'm glad I waited for your reply. I'm always extremely careful when it comes to electricity. Ya just can't see it sneaking up on you!:eek: These are great instructions and easy to understand and follow. With my luck it'll be the circuit board ($), but it's well worth fixing. I appreciate your time and help and will let you know how this plays out. Thanks! Joe, I finally got around to running the test on my circuit board, CN5 connector. I got voltage on the #3 pin(black) and No voltage on the #5 pin(orange) and I checked it several times to be sure...same thing every time. What does that mean...New Board?! Thanks again for your time and effort...Jim
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Originally Posted by: okpotter Joe,
I finally got around to running the test on my circuit board, CN5 connector. I got voltage on the #3 pin(black) and No voltage on the #5 pin(orange) and I checked it several times to be sure...same thing every time. What does that mean...New Board?!
Thanks again for your time and effort...Jim OKpotter, No there won't be 120 VAC on the orange (pin #5) at the PCB, it's a neutral leg. There will be voltage on the orange wire to chassis ground, and the relay works, because the lights work,we're OK there. Now, disconnect the white and black and red wire from the transformer, and check for 120 VAC across the wires, with the M/W power applied, there should be no voltage present, until you program a cook mode and start the M/W. The main relay on the board should close and complete the circuit and the voltage will appear, if the control board is OK. Thanks and Good Luck,
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