Gene, my Model # is Whirlpool LGR4634JT2. PLEASE BEAR WITH THE LONG REPLY BUT I THINK IT WILL BE WORTH IT.

I put your reply in bold for good reason as in all the threads about this problem the cycling of the flame being normal was never really pointed out and wasn't readily apparent to me. This made me think that the flame "on for two minutes" was a problem in and of itself. See when my dryer was "short cycling" it was doing so REGARDLESS of whether the DRUM was EMPTY or full of WET CLOTHING. I point this out for good reason and will explain below.

To get by with the household laundry while researching parts/options, etc (like many others I would imagine), I would turn the dryer on with clothing in and monitor the flame via a mirror that I fashioned in front of the inspection window toward the bottom of my dryer. If the flame was out and not reigniting I would turn the dryer to AIR FLUFF to let the dryer "rest" and keep the clothes circulating in the air that was still warm. After five or so minutes I would turn the dryer back to a heat setting and wait to make sure the flame started up again. Painstakingly monotonous to be sure, but it worked and I think I actually used less gas and less dryer time to dry my clothes, lol.

Once I did the repair (Both Coils, Flame Sensor, and Ignitor), I started the dryer EMPTY and much to my dismay watched the flame go on for two minutes and then go off. This point is important because it never dawned on me that the flame is supposed to cycle and an empty dryer reaches operating temperature much faster than one full of wet clothes. (cue the laughter, lol). Impatient, I never stuck around to see if the flame reginited. Daunted, I put a FULL LOAD OF WET CLOTHES in the dryer because I still had laundry to do and sat down in front of the computer to read more and more of these forums. I kept checking the dryer flame and it was still burning after 5 minutes. I then sat down in front of the dryer and watched the flame burn steadily for another 15 minutes straight!!!! It then went out for 3 or 4 but this time I stuck around to see it reignite! Eureka!!! Stupid me for not being patient and not thinking of the dryer as similiar to an air conditioner, cycling on and off to maintain a set temperature. This I am pointing out because I think others may be using the same flawed reasoning.

This lead to my below method for assessing if the dryer repair worked (feel free to disagree of course):

If you are testing your dryer repair WITH AN EMPTY DRUM, the flame should only run for a minute or two and then cycle off for up to five (5).

In my opinion if you want to fully test your repair and gauge the longevity of the flame burn, load the dryer with a FULL LOAD OF WET CLOTHES. I have found that this will result in the flame cycle being on FOR UP TO 20 MINUTES, as the dryer attempts to reach an operating temperature while battling against the wet clothing.

Hopefully you agree with my assessment Gene, and while it may seem like common sense to some, I hope this helped others and potentially might be pointed out as an alternate troubleshooting method with regard to assessing the coils, etc.

Gene please feel free to rebut. :D

Thanks, Derek

Sorry for the delay.

The problem you described is one of most common with all gas dryers. The solution is to replace the gas valve coils.

- The coil kit Part number: AP3094251

Disconnect the vent hose at the back of the dryer and run a load.

If you will see real difference, the house vent line is clogged somewhere.

If nothing changed and the air flow is good but the air is not hot enough, replace the cycling thermostat.

- The cycling thermostat Part number: AP3131939

Gene thank you, especially for taking the time to help all of us DIYers out on this forum. You are a patient man.

Did you do it?

If not, then you have to.

If you did, what was the result?

Gene.