Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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The dryer takes 2 to 3 dry cycles to get the clothes dry. I removed the blower cover and cleaned the lint/debris, checked the vent line and I have really good air flow to the exterior. I then viewed with the back cover off and I get a gas flame, but it must cycle off to quickly. Should it run continuous or cycle off and on, off and on? I can test the different sensors, per your advice to others with a continuity tester. Do you have some part numbers for this unit once I determine the offending part? Are they all supposed to test closed? Thanks in advance! Michael Leavitt 1145 N. Main Street Orem, Utah 84057 801-636-6816 Michael@TheHomeInspector.comHome - www.TheHomeInspector.com - The official website of Michael Leavitt & Co Inspections, Inc.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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I tested the different accessible sensors. I found three with two wires each, unplugged the wires and they tested closed. There was a fourth sensor that had four wires going to it and was located right next to the dryer vent discharge. The top and bottom spades had a blue wire to one and a red wire with white stripe to the other and it tested closed. The other two right and left spades had purple wires and they tested open. Is that normal or is it a sign of failure? Michael Leavitt - Master Inspector Michael Leavitt & Co Inspections, Inc. 1145 N. Main Street Orem, Utah 84057 801-636-6816 Michael@TheHomeInspector.com Home - www.TheHomeInspector.com - The official website of Michael Leavitt & Co Inspections, Inc.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 5,556
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Hi, Michael.
The easiest way to find where the problem is to take off the vent hose of the dryer and run a regular load. Set the timer for time dry and time it. If that still going to take two three hours - the problem is within the dryer. If not - then it's your vent.
Post the result.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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Yes, as I mentioned above I know it is in the dryer. Can you help me further?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
Did you try the test I am recommending? No offense, just trying to be helpful.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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The only offense taken is that I started off by stating I had eliminated the vent. But I had been brief before. The vent discharge line is just 6’ long and I have great airflow. I then removed the back of the dryer and removed the vent discharge assembly exposing the blower fan. I cleaned out the lint and debris (yes there was even a red colored pencil in the blower fan area). Having eliminated the venting portion I then turned to the sensors and went online seeking guidance for troubleshooting. I read many of the responses and decided to post to this forum thinking that I could get the needed advice. So the offense taken was that it seemed as though you skipped over the first two sentences of my initial post. But I realize that you were just taking me back to the very initial troubleshooting steps. Hopefully this explanation helps you better understand where I am at in the process. Michael Leavitt - Orem, Utah
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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Does anybody have the answer to this outstanding question?... Cut from above, “There was a fourth sensor that had four wires going to it and was located right next to the dryer vent discharge. The top and bottom spades had a blue wire to one and a red wire with white stripe to the other and it tested closed. The other two right and left spades had purple wires and they tested open. Is that normal or is it a sign of failure?” Would a picture be helpful? Michael Leavitt - Orem, Utah
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 5,556
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Hi, Michael. The resistance at the thermostat heater should read between 5600 and 8400 ohms. Thank you. In case if it's bad here is Operating thermostat Part number: AP3131939
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