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I just got done replacing my snubber (due to the shakes when spinning) and the brakes (due to it squealing when stopping). Thank you bad*dawg and richappy for the advice with this as my shakes and squeals are now gone.
After I put it all back together I'm now experiencing a completely new problem (I'm sure it was due to the repair work just completed).
During the initial fill cycle, the water will not stop filling and will spill over until stopped. It does not matter what setting I have it on either (mini ~ oversize). If I turn the washer off, the water will stop pouring in. From what I could tell all the hoses are on tight and none of them had any holes in them.
I'm so close to having my washer back to normal. Any advice on what I should be looking at would be great.
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Here is a manual http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16023083.pdfGet a piece of tubing with the same internal diameter as the one on the water level switch. Attach it to the switch. Start a cycle blow in the tube. The water should stop without blowing too hard. If it does you have a problem with the tubing. |
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Does any of this have anything to do with disassembly we did when replacing the snubber and brakes?I will need to take apart the control panel in order to reach the water level switch, correct? Also, do you know the size and length of the tube needed to perform this test?Originally Posted by: denman 
The water should stop without blowing too hard. If it does you have a problem with the tubing. So, if I blow easily into this tub, and the water stops, the tube is good? If this correct, and the tube is good, what's next? :cool: Excuse all my questions as I’m washer illiterate. I’m surprised I was able to replace the snubber and brakes as easily as we did :D .
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Does any of this have anything to do with disassembly we did when replacing the snubber and brakes?
It could. You may have loosened the tubing either at the switch or where it attaches to the tub.
I will need to take apart the control panel in order to reach the water level switch, correct?
Yes
Also, do you know the size and length of the tub needed to perform this test?
No . Cut off half an inch or so and take with you to a hardware store to get a match. The ID has to be the same, the wall thickness has to be equal or a little thicker.You may want to get a piece that will reach from the switch down to where it attaches to the tub. Then if it needs replacement you have it
So, if I blow easily into this tub, and the water stops, the tub is good?
No, the switch is good the tube is still an unknown.
The way this works is the switch is activated by pressure. The tube runs down to the bottom of the tub. As the tub fills air is trapped in the tube. Note that your unit has an air bell.As the water rises the air pressure in the tube/bell also rises. When the pressure equals the set point of the switch, it trips and shuts the water off.
So if you have an air leak in the tube the pressure will not rise and the washer overfills. This could also be a leak where it attaches to the tube at the tub or the switch.
what's next?
Check the tubing for cracks and holes.
Check the tubing connections at6 the switch and the tub.
Check the air bell. see Pages 4-3 and 4-6 in the service manual.
Excuse all my questions as I’m washer illiterate.
Not a problem |
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Thanks Denman. It was actually a very simply fix. The tube connecting to the tub was disconnected. Probably happened when we removed the outer case to get the snubber and brake. Re-connected the tube and the wife did a load of laundry perfectly~
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