Gene,
The water tray DID NOT fill when I jumpered the "T" and "H" Test Points.

MORE INFORMATION SINCE I LAST POSTED: After work yesterday, I decided to proceed with additional troubleshooting of the water valve. To double check there was no ice in the fill line, I disconnected the ice maker water line from the water valve and used my air compressor to blow through the line (with assistance from spouse) and checked for air flow at the fill tube inside the freezer (no clogging at all). Since I was confident that wasn't the problem, I reconnected the water line and removed both electrical connectors to the water valve. I then attempted to connect the purple connector for the in-door water dispenser to the water valve for the ice maker but quickly determined that it would not connect (different size connectors). To get around this I decided to install two jumper wires from the purple (in-door water) connector to the valve for the ice maker. I taped the emitter door closed to ensure the light beam was not blocked, taped down the freezer door button to simulate the door being closed, taped the ice maker door in the open position to see the water fill tube, reconnected power and when I depressed the in-door water dispenser lever, "presto" -- water began filling the ice maker. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doing this verified that the water valve is GOOD and that my problem now is related to some other part not sending 120 VAC to the ice maker valve (result = no water due to the valve remaining in the closed position)?

I must admit that I was hoping water would NOT dispense when the in-door water lever was depressed during the "jumpered" test which would in-turn indicate a defective water valve (much cheaper to replace than the cost of an entire ice maker)?

Oh well, I'm hoping AppliancePartsPros will take back the kit for the emitter/transmitter if I have to purchase a IM.

Before I order anything else, I would greatly appreciate your opinion on what part needs to be replaced to fix my problem. Do I have to purchase an entire IM or can I simply replace another (less expensive) component (i.e., thermostat)?

Gene,

I assume that I need to replace the ice maker unit on a KSBS25INBL00 Kitchenaid base on the conclusions above. I have 120V power through points L & N, but the jumper in T & H did not produce any movement. Do you agree, or is there some other possible solution?

Gene,

I did the manual start procedure, but the Ice maker did not run.

Greetings Gene,
I'm the guy (Eds 3rd) that had the inoperative ice maker on the KitchenAid Refrigerator (Model # KSRP25FNSS00). Anyway, I followed your advice and ordered the entire IM assembly and "presto", everything worked as advertised. Once I knew everything was working as advertised, I unplugged the fridge and swaped the optics P.C. kit (emitter & transmitter boards) and plugged it back in.

Again, "presto", everything worked good. I must admit that I was a bit skeptical that AppliancePartsPros would take back this part (especially since it is an electrical item and most appliance parts stores will not accept a return), but was glad to hear that I will get a "Full Refund"!!

I am completely overwhelmed with this company and sent them an e-mail expressing my appreciation (especially the exceptional troubleshooting assistance I received from you -- Thanks again for everything)!!

Rest assured that I will use you exclusively for all future appliance parts purchases and will recommend you to all of my friends. GOD BLESS!!:) :) :)

Thank You Eds 3rd,

Glad to hear you are satisfied with our service.

Also know that any part purchased from us within a year has a replacement warranty. Which means you dont need to return the defective part purchased from us. We just send you out a replacement and you hold the defective part for 30 days before discarding.

Please call our toll free number 1-877-477-7278 if you have any questions.