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Gene, Here it comes. I just took a picture of the fridge I have. I cant find this model on this website but I was able to find it on the samsung web. Thanks, A~ anya attached the following image(s):
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Anya, I'm hoping that the attached instructions will help. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Anya,
I'm hoping that the attached instructions will help.
Gene. Gene, thank you for your instructions! I found online on samsung web that the flashing light might mean that water filter needs to be replaced and we bought and installed a new filter. Then we press for 8 sec Ice Type & Filter Reset and all the buttons on the front panel are back on!!!! Do you think it was a filter that cost this whole problem? Also, my friend said it could be the relay on the compressor that needs to be replaced... I did knocked on it before I replaced the water filter. Do you think it needs to be replaced? To be honest I pressed for 8 sec before I knocked on relay and nothing happened. Want do you think? Anyhow, I will wait for few days and see if my original problem will be back (too warm inside of the fridge, air wont blow into fridge) and then I will sent you updates. You are the ONLY one who makes sense from anyone I spoke too! Thanks again, Anya PS I know its not related but I am wondering if you know how to take the glass part out of the fridge. I accidentally put on the wrong spot and its jammed now. Please see pic anya attached the following image(s):
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Originally Posted by: Gene You are welcome. The pictures you posted are very helpful. Thank you. The piece in the green circle is the foam and it suppose to be there. It's pointing the air flow in the right direction. There is definitely a problem with the defrost system. You have to have an ohmmeter to check for continuity the defrost thermostat and defrost heater (#21 & #14 on the diagram). If there is nothing wrong, replace the control board (#23 on the diagram). - The defrost thermostat Part number: AP2150145
- The defrost heater Part number: AP2150169
Hi Gene, Okay, so I finally got around to testing the resistance...I hope I did it right. First, I unplugged the refrigerator from the wall outlet. For the the defrost heater, I disconnected the red and black plugs, put the positive lead in the red and the negative lead in the black. I got a reading of 28.2 Part number: AP2150169
For the defrost thermostat, I left the plugs disconnected from the defrost heater as those wires appeared to be combined with the wires from the defrost thermostat. I considered the dark blue wire as positive and light blue wire as negative as I traced it to where the wires from the defrost heater went in. To be sure, I also swapped spots with the leads. Both times, I got a reading of 00.0 Part number: AP2150145
 How did I do? Regardless of which one I need to replace, how do I pull out the wires from the defrost thermostat or defrost heater without compromising the other item that goes into the same port within the harness? Thanks for your continued help, Gene!
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You did everything correct. Based on the information you posted, the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat are good. So you don't have to pull out any wires. The new control board should fix this problem.
Gene.
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Ugh...I was hoping it wouldn't be the control board...
What did my readings mean?
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Ummm...so I ordered the Control Board today (Wednesday) and it should be here by Thursday. I figured I'd go one more round of defrosting with my hairdryer since I could feel the air blowing less and less. When I finished defrosting, I couldn't hear the refrigerator running or feel the air coming through the top of fridge as I had over the past week. I was also prepping to see which screws I needed to take out tomorrow to replace the control board, so I took out the water filter and popped it back in. I'd done this over the the past week as well. I re-opened the panel in the freezer and look what I saw....  So...should I still go ahead and replace the control board? Does the heater working now mean that it's working properly? Or could this just be a fluke? What could have triggered this to start working? I'm trying to be safe so I don't have to potentially "throw away" $145 for my control board. Thanks for your continued help. UPDATE: The heater just turned off and the refrigerator started running again. The coils have not totally completely defrosted yet. The heater stayed on for about 5 minutes. Thoughts?
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This control board, like any other electronic device, can have an intermittent problem. It can work any other time or acting up in any other different way. $145 invested in this part can save you more money invested in a food.
Gene.
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Is it difficult to replace the control board?
I don't want to break anything in the process...
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As you can see on the diagram, there are only 3 screws secured the control box. Do not forget to unplug the refrigerator first. Gene.
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