Ladies 'n Gents - your help is greatly needed and appreciated:

I have a 7 yr. old 30" GE radiant cooktop that bit the dust today. My wife had complained about a smell (which I quickly identified as insulation - bakelite - burning), and while my head was in the cabinet under the cooktop, my wife turned on a burner - to "H" - and within two seconds I nearly crapped my pants as a loud "POP!" was heard, and a bright flash was seen.

After I recovered (and having scared my kids with my reaction), I checked to ensure that the breaker was indeed triggered (it was), and I pulled the cooktop out of the countertop, flipped it over and opened the back. It was immediately obvious by the charred circumference of sooty death what had happened: the terminal block had heated to melting and resulted in the Main Black Wire terminal block to arc through the bakelite insulation to the block retainer plate (the quickest path to ground), melting the whole shebang, including vaporizing the screwed down end of the Main Black Wire (is that common? The other incoming wire is Red). Pics of carnage:





The terminal block, listed as Part #WB17X10009, is $20 + shipping here and there (though it's discontinued, and out of stock in several places), and it's easy enough to replace (I'll reuse the partially vaporized but still functional retainer plate because it's another $13 if I don't), but my question is what the #($# would cause it to melt in the first place? I don't want to replace the part to have it all happen again. Clearly, the current wanted to get to ground badly and quickly, and that makes me question the integrity of the burner, or other circuitry. Everything else looks clean and unblemished, though, so I'm wondering how this could have happened.

Can anyone give me some direction on something else I should be looking for, or is this sort of thing not uncommon?

Thanks for your input! :o

Helllooooo......

Do not really have an opinion without actually seeing the unit and checking all the elements and knowing how the unit is used. Any opinion on the cause would be a guess.

But I can tell you is what I know about overheating at connection points.

If a connection point is not quite right, it will not have 0 ohms. This small resistance then heats up as current passes through it. This heat corrodes the connection and causes micro arcing. These then raise the resistance which increases the heat output, etc. etc. etc. until the connection fails.

The fault may have been there from day one.

I can suggest some things to do when installing your new terminal block

1. Check all wires connecting to it. Make sure there is no indication of overheating re: softened or malformed insulation. If there is be sure to cut back the wire till you get to nice clean wire and put on a new connector.

2. Check all connectors which attach to the block. If they are discolored clean them. If there are signs of arcing replace them. If unable to clean replace them. Make sure to get good connection/crimp to the bare wire and use high current rated connectors.

3. Make sure all connectors fit tightly to the block.

4. Lightly coat the block connectors with electrical connection goop (the stuff recommended for all aluminum connections). This helps the connection and eliminates long term corrosion. Do not go crazy with this stuff as it does conduct electricity so only a light coat.

The only thing that makes sense here is if an element is shorting to ground.
This sometimes happens especially with the feet on the baking element up to the point it is shorting.
Often though you would see it as part of the element will be brighter.

I cannot think of anything.

Did he say how long a wait you will have, if it is excessive I would be temped to use wire nuts to make the connections.

As long as they are rated for the amperage and the total wire size I cannot see a problem. I would use the bakelite (well I think it is bakelite, hard black insulator) type which has the brass insert with a screw. You make your connection and then screw the insulating part over top of this.

This would also have the advantage of you not having to crimp on new connectors to the stove's wires.

Perhaps someone else will jump in with a reason why this would not be a good idea.